By David Marks
Fuchsias were first identified around 1696 in the Dominican Republic which is just south of Cuba. The majority of fuchsias originate from sub-tropical areas of the world although a few are native to cooler areas. This explains why the majority are tender plants but some can withstand UK winters.
They make ideal plants for growing in the UK not only for their beauty but also because they can so easily be propagated by the amateur gardener with no special equipment at all. One plant bought in March and protected from frost can be used to create ten or more others at no cost at all. There are few plants which can be grown so economically.
KEY DATES FOR GROWING FUCHSIAS
Many fuchsias are grown all year round in pots and containers filled with multi-purpose compost, others are grown in open ground in a variety of soils and all grow well in most conditions as long as the growing medium is kept moist but not water-logged. If there is a difficulty with fuchsias it’s not the amount of sunshine or soil conditions, it’s a matter of timing. Our calendar below solves that problem for you and it can be made more accurate for your area of the UK if you set the dates to be accurate for your home town. Take a minute to do this now and then return here for dates which will stay set to your home town for many months.
The calendar below lists dates for propagating fuchsias by cuttings, how to care for them and how to grow on shop bought plants. It also has key dates for over-wintering your plants in containers. Click on any of the entries below to be taken to a detailed section with lots more information. Remember, the calendar below is a guide and over the time you grow your fuchsias your timings may begin to differ slightly.
Buy small plants for cuttingsThe first week of March
QUESTION: I have a fuchsia plant which I bought as a Mother’s Day gift many years ago my mother died in 1998 and the plant was bought approximately 5yrs before. I take little care of it. It is planted in an old chimney pot.it now flowers more than it ever did and has been flowering from December . How long do these plants live? Is it time I gave this beautiful old plant some TLC?
ANSWER: I would continue to treat it exactly as you have done for the past years. It clearly suits it! As for the how long they live for I would guess that a fuchsia will live around 30 years.
Because the plant has memories for you I would suggest that you take a cutting and either grow it elsewhere in your garden or give it away to a friend. If anything happened to the original plant you will then have a replacement or can take a cutting from the fuchsia you gave away.
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GROWING JAPANESE MAPLES IN THE UK
WHERE TO PLANT JAPANESE MAPLES
As a general rule, Japanese Maples which are green in the summer withstand a good amount of sun throughout the year. In sunnier areas of the UK they should be in semi-shade for part of the afternoon. This will reduce the possibility of leaf burn. In areas with less natural sun they are best in full sun for the whole day, indeed they need the autumn sun in cooler areas if they are to turn orange / red / yellow in the autumn.
Other Japanese Maples which are variegated or naturally red all year should be grown in semi-shade. The shade should ideally be provided at the hottest part of the day. But don’t grow in all-day shade because even red / variegated varieties require a good amount of sun in order to develop their full autumn colour.
The roots of Japanese Maples are very fibrous unlike many other trees. This enables them to absorb higher than normal amounts of nutrients from the soil. This is the clue to ideal soil conditions for Japanese Maple trees. They prefer a slightly acidic soil which is well drained but not dry. Unusually, they do best on soils with a slightly lower than average amount of organic matter.
WHEN AND HOW TO WATER JAPANESE MAPLES
For the first two years hand watering may be required if the conditions are dry. Thereafter an annual mulch around the base of the tree in late spring is all that is needed.
Once the tree is established the key requirement is that the amount of water available should remain even. Where Japanese Maple trees are grown in areas short of water they will cope quite well, simply growing into a more shrubby tree compared to normal. The biggest danger comes where Japanese Maples are grown in places where the supply of water is variable. A relatively short, very dry and hot period will cause significant and sometimes total leaf drop. In these conditions water regularly as soon as the hot weather begins.
To summarise, the amount of water is not usually a problem for Japanese Maples but they definitely suffer where the amount of water available varies significantly especially when combined with changes in temperature.
WHEN AND HOW TO FEED JAPANESE MAPLE TREES
In most conditions Japanese Maples do not require feeding. If other shrubs grow well in that are then so will Japanese Maples. If the soil is very poor apply a general shrub fertiliser in mid Spring.
A definite rule is never to feed any Japanese Maples from early to mid-summer onwards, especially avoid nitrogen rich feeds. If you do feed after this time any new growth will be soft and much more liable to frost and wind damage in the winter.
HOW AND WHEN TO PRUNE JAPANESE MAPLES
Many people are afraid of pruning their Japanese Maples and the result is often a tree which grows too large for the available space. The key to pruning is to do it annually which will keep the tree to the required shape and size without the need for drastic infrequent pruning.
The time for pruning is also key. Only prune after leaf fall and always before the sap starts to rise early in the year. Late November to very early January is the best time in UK weather conditions. Don’t paint over the wounds, leave them to dry off naturally and quickly. A sharp and clean pair of secateurs is the ideal tool. Blunt tools squash and bruise the wood whilst dirty secateurs can easily spread infection.
Many Japanese Maple trees (dissectums particularly) tend to accumulate lots of twig like growth towards
the centre of the tree. When the leaves open this growth tends to stop wind movement within the tree and encourages pests and diseases. So prune away some of this twiggy growth in winter for a healthier tree next year.
By David Marks This article contains all the information an amateur gardener needs to
grow top quality tomatoes outdoors in the UK. The unique calendar below
can be personalised to the weather conditions in your area of the
country (click here to do that
now). The default setting will be average UK weather conditions.
For all the tomato varieties which we have fully reviewed, click the drop down box below, select a
variety and then click the More Information Button.
QUICK CALENDAR FOR OUTDOOR TOMATOES
Sow seeds in pots indoors Second week of March
Pot up young plants Second week of April
Harden off young plants First week of May
Plant out young plants Third week of May
Begin high potash feed When flowers die off
Begin pruning cordon type When side shoots appear
Begin harvesting tomatoes First week of August
Begin nitrogen feed First week of September
WHERE TO GROW OUTDOOR TOMATOES
There are two main methods for growing tomatoes outside in the UK, in grow bags / large containers or in the open ground. From our experience we know that most gardeners grow their outdoor tomatoes in grow bags and containers although we have seen several gardeners grow large amounts of tomato plants on allotments in open ground.
The advantages of growing tomato plants in grow bags and containers are summarised as:
The soil conditions in the grow bag are ideal
No digging is required
The grow bags can be positioned for maximum sun exposure and wind protection
Feeding is more easily controlled
Small portions of land can be used which might otherwise go to waste
The advantages of growing outdoor tomatoes in open land can be summarised as:
No purchase of grow bags/ containers needed
Larger numbers of plants can be more easily and economically grown
Adequate and consistent watering is far, far, easier
More trace elements are normally available to the plants in open ground and this leads to better tasting tomatoes
Whichever method is chosen, tomatoes benefit from as much sun as they can possibly receive in the UK. Tomatoes will grow in partial shade although they will produce less of a crop and it will be later in the year. Tomato plants also prefer positions protected from winds.
If you are growing tomato plants in open ground, dig the soil well and add lots of well-rotted organic matter. You are aiming for a free-draining but water retentive soil. A couple of weeks before planting out your tomatoes sprinkle a good handful of blood, fish and bone per square metre (yard) over the soil surface and gently work it in with a rake, hoe or similar.
Grow bags and multi-purpose compost should have sufficient nutrients already in the compost to feed your tomato plants for four weeks. Always use fresh compost bought in the current year, old compost and grow bags used last year will have pests and diseases in them which will almost certainly do damage to tomato plants if used again.
Containers and grow bags must have drainage holes in the bottom and this is often not the case. Check for drainage holes well before planting because it is very difficult to add them later on.
For our detailed article specifically about growing tomatoes in containers, grow bags and raised beds,click here.
SOWING OUTDOOR TOMATOES
TEMPERATURES FOR SUCCESSFUL TOMATO SEED GERMINATION
Some basic rules need to be followed when sowing seeds. First, tomato seeds require a soil temperature of at least 10°C / 50°F to germinate and above 35°C / 95°F they will fail to germinate. The best temperature range is between 18°C / 64°F and 22°C / 72°F.
A small fall in the temperature at night time is perfectly acceptable although the more even the temperature the quicker the seeds will germinate. In the UK it's almost impossible to achieve the optimum soil temperatures for germination early in the season wherever you live, so we strongly recommend sowing and growing on the seedlings indoors.
HOW AND WHEN TO SOW TOMATO SEEDS
It's important to get the timing of sowing tomato seeds correct because you can sow them too late and end up with a late crop, or, you can sow them too early and end up with a houseful of large, light-starved plants just waiting for the last frost before you can plant them out.
We recommend sowing tomato seeds in 7cm / 3in pots initially, anything smaller and you will need to pot up (transfer the seedling to a larger pot) more frequently with no benefit.
The best time to sow tomato seed in average UK areas is the second week of March 2015. Click here to personalise dates in the site to your town.
Fill the pots nearly to the top with multi-purpose compost, place one or two seeds (depending on how expensive they are) on the compost surface and then lightly sprinkle a centimetre more compost over the seeds. Gently pat the compost down over the seeds and water, preferably by placing the pots in 3cm / 1 in of water until it is damp through. Place the pots in a warmish area of the house (18°C / 64°F and 22°C / 72°F), with or without light, it doesn't matter at this stage.
The seeds will take one to two weeks until they germinate and a seedling appears. As soon as that happens move the pots to a light and airy position such as a windowsill but not in direct
sunlight. At this stage aim to grow them on in a temperature of around 18°C / 64°F – small differences in the temperature are not a problem. However, as
always with growing plants on a windowsill, be aware that occasionally night time temperatures can get low and the plants will not withstand much lower than 6°C / 43°F without ill effects and a frost will kill them them stone dead.
If you are growing on a windowsill where the light only comes from one direction you will find that the plant bends towards the light. To even the plant's growth up turn the pot halfway round every day or so.
If you want to know how to save tomato seeds, our seven step guide with pictures is ideal. It’s easy to do, costs nothing and above all it’s fun and environmentally friendly. Click here to go to the page.
POTTING UP TOMATO PLANTS
Roughly four weeks after sowing tomato seed in7cm / 3in pots the plants will need to be transferred to a larger pot to allow more room for the roots to grow. If you follow our advice on the timing of sowing seed we recommend potting up the plants into 12cm / 5in pots although a centimetre or two more will be fine. To judge when to pot up tomato plants, they should be about 10cm / tall. More importantly, the roots should have reached the base of the existing pot, see the picture below.
Roots have reached the base of the pot
Turn the plant and soil out of the old pot into the palm of your hand. Carefully place it centrally into the new pot, do not add any compost to the base of the larger pot before doing this.
Tomato plant prior to potting up
Now infill the space in the new pot with more compost, gently firming it down as you go. If you follow these instructions on potting up you will find that the tomato plant is slightly deeper in the compost compared to before and this is ideal. This will allow the stem to sprout new roots higher up the stem and …… more roots mean more tomatoes at harvest time! The same principle will apply when you plant the tomatoes into their final positions.
Tomato after potting up (click to enlarge pic)
The new compost will provide enough nutrients for the next three weeks but after that feed them with a balanced liquid fertiliser once a week at the rate recommended on the packet / container. Keep turning the pot around to ensure light reaches all sides of the plant and it grows upright rather than towards the light.
HARDEN OFF TOMATO PLANTS
A week or two before planting out your tomatoes you will need to acclimatise them to outside temperatures and weather conditions, this process is called hardening off. Start this off during the first week of May by placing the plants in a protected position outside during the day for a couple of hours at first. Day by day increase the amount of time they spend outside by an hour each day. Always bring them inside if a late frost threatens.
YELLOW LOWER LEAVES ON TOMATO PLANTS
When tomato seedlings first grow they have two leaves (called cotyledons), see the picture abovehere. These leaves are specially designed to protect the growing tip as the plant pushes to the surface. When they reach the surface and sense light the plant immediately begins to produce normal leaves which are designed to convert light into energy and
enable the plant to grow a root and canopy system.
As the plants grow and develop true leaves the seedling leaves have no purpose any more so they turn yellow and eventually fall off of their own accord. You can of course gently pull them off as soon as true leaves develop.
The point being made is that yellowing seedling leaves are completely natural and nothing to be concerned about.
If more lower leaves start to turn yellow then that is a concern. The normal reason for yellowing leaves on tomato plants is that there is a shortage of nitrogen. To correct add a balanced general purpose liquid fertiliser to the water when you water the plant. The frequency and amount are as stated on the
packaging.
Another reason for yellowing leaves is that the plant is simply too big for the pot and needs to be potted up. If a large plant is grown in a small pot the roots are not able to absorb sufficient nutrients to support the above ground growth and the leaves may start to turn yellow.
Another possible reason for yellow tomato leaves is that the compost is water-logged. This also stops the roots absorbing nutrients and causes yellow leaves. The solution is to stop watering for a short period of time.
PLANTING OUT TOMATOES
Only plant out your tomatoes when all danger of frost has passed, in
average UK areas this is the third week of May 2015. Click here to personalise dates in the site to your town. If you are planting them directly into open ground prepare the soil by digging it to a fine tilth to a spade's depth. Sprinkle a handful of blood, fish and bone per square metre / yard onto the planting area and work it into the soil surface.
Tomato plants prefer a soil which is slightly acidic although they will grow successfully in most garden soils. The ideal pH would be in
the range 6.0 to 6.8. A neutral soil has a pH of 7.0. Click here to learn more about soil pH levels.
The procedure for planting is the same for grow bags and in open soil. Use a trowel to dig a hole slightly wider than the pot and about 5cm / 2in deeper. Place the plant in the hole and
infill with the surrounding soil / compost gently firming it down as you go. The plant will end up 5cm / 2in deeper below the soil surface than before allowing
the newly buried part of the stem to sprout more roots as the plant grows. Water in well to settle the soil around the roots and also provide initial moisture.
One good idea for planting out tomato plants in grow bags, pots and in open soil is to use a bottomless container filled with compost. The picture below (click it to enlarge and see more clearly) shows a bottomless pot (we simply cut the base off with a sharp knife) filled with multi-purpose compost. The pot is placed over prepared open soil but can
just as easily be placed into a hole cut into the top of a grow bag.
When planting in open soil this gives the young tomato plant an ideal soil into which it can initially establish itself. When the roots reach the base of the pot they will grow easily into the normal soil.
The benefits for using the same system with grow bags is that the tomato plants have a larger area to spread their roots and absorb nutrients, it also reduces the need for frequent watering.
Allowing enough space between plants is important to permit good airflow and reduce the risk of fungal diseases such as blight. The space depends to a great degree on which variety of tomato plant is grow so follow the instructions on the back of the packet of seeds. A spacing of 45cm to 60cm (18in to 24in) between plants should be fine in most cases.
Cordon tomato plants will need support during the growing season. Where they are grown in open ground a single stick can be inserted into the soil near the plant. Allow for 1.2m above ground and about 50cm below ground. Tie the main stem into the support as it grows. The same can be done for plants grown in grow bags although commonly the are grown against a fence which can
sometimes be used to provide support.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above. Our Outdoor Tomatoes comment / question and answer page lists their comments,
questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you
have.
By David Marks
Sweetcorn is a genetic mutation of maize which has been cultivated in Central America for thousands of years.The key difference between the two is that maize is generally more suitable for consumption when the kernels are hard whereas sweet corn is best eaten when the kernels are soft and the liquid inside is milky.Sweetcorn, as the name implies, is sweet if harvested at the correct stage of its growth. Recent varieties have been bred to thrive in most parts of the UK / USA and similar climates.
TYPES OF SWEETCORN
It may be surprising to some but there are at least three very distinct types of sweetcorn and they require slightly different growing conditions.
To confuse matters even more, the three types of sweet corn have different names depending on the company selling the seed. We list below the three main types of sweetcorn, the different names used for each and briefly explain the main differences in cultivation methods.
SUPER SWEET SWEET CORN
Also known as SH2 corn. This type of sweetcorn should be grown well away from other varieties of sweetcorn if you want to retain the super-sweet taste. They are more tempremental to grow, especially in the cooler climates.
However they are the sweetest of all sweetcorn and retain that sweetness for the longest of all with the best keeping qualities if stored correctly. See our notes on how best to store sweetcorn here.
EXTRA TENDER SWEET CORN
Also known as Tendersweet and SE / SE+. These sweetcorn are not quite as sweet as the super sweet varieties but are most definitely sweeter compared to standard sweetcorn. They have a storage life of about 5 days if stored correctly.
They can be grown next to the other two types without any problems. Their texture is more creamy and the skins more tender than super sweet varieties. Many people consider extra tender sweet corn to have a more authentic, full taste and easier to eat than the other two types.
STANDARD SWEET CORN
Also known as SU. These are the least sweet of the varieties being the original sweetcorn varieties. Their quality is not affected when grown with other types. Their major drawback is that their texture and sweetness deteriorates at an alarming rate when picked.
Within an hour or so of picking a good proportion of their sugar will have converted to starch making them not so pleasant to eat. Cook this type within minutes of picking and you will have the very authentic taste of sweetcorn.
HOW QUICKLY DO SWEETCORN MATURE
Another way to classify sweetcorn, especially if you want a long cropping season, is how quick they are to mature. If you sow two or three varieties with different times to maturity the harvesting period can be extended considerably. However, bear in mind that Supersweet varieties should not be grown anywhere near other Supersweet varieties.
For this reason we would suggest only growing Extra Tender varieties in the same garden if you are growing more than one variety. See our page on sweetcorn varieties for much more information on maturity times.
VARIETIES OF SWEETCORN IN THE UK
The choice of sweetcorn varieties is bewildering so we have created a page with detailed reviews and pictures of some of the best available. Click here to go the now and choose the best variety for your growing conditions.
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above. Our new Sweetcorn comment / question and answer page
lists those comments, questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you have.
By David Marks
Runner beans are one of the most reliable vegetables to grow in the UK. They will not only produce a delicious crop of beans with very little effort but they will also produce a delightful display of flowers in July time.We recommend sowing the seed indoors / under cover and then transplanting them outside when the seedlings have emerged. Runner Beans can also be sown directly in the soil when all danger of frost has passed (end May / very early June 2017). The problem with direct sowing is that the seeds are a great delicacy for mice and other small animals! Wet weather can also rot the beans.
CALENDAR FOR SOWING / GROWING RUNNER BEANS
Dates for sowing seed are the same for dwarf and climbing varieties.
To adjust the calendar dates for your town, click here.
Start saving inner cardboard tubes from toilet rolls – early January
Sow Runner Bean seeds in pots indoorsthe first week of May
Sow Runner Bean seeds under clochesthe first week of May
Harden off Runner Bean seedlingsthe third week of May
Sow Runner Bean seeds outsideend May / very early June 2017
Plant out seed sown in pots indoorsthe last week of May
Begin to harvest Runner Beans –the second week of August
Runner Bean seeds
Be sure to read our section on runner bean varieties before buying seeds because in the last five years there have been great improvement in the available varieties (we explain in detail on that page) and many web pages and books have not yet got round to understanding this.
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR GROWING RUNNER BEANS
Runner Beans do best when they are grown in nutrient rich soil which retains moisture. Their roots go down much deeper than most vegetables so a well dug soil to a depth of 45cm / 18in will suit them fine.
The classic way to prepare soil for growing runner beans is to dig a deep trench as long as the proposed planting area, about 60cm / 2ft deep and about the same width. Stack up the dug soil at the side of the trench. This would normally be dug around November time.
Over the next month or so kitchen waste, which would normally go on the compost heap, is placed into the trench instead. This continues until the trench is half-filled, hopefully around Christmas time.
Now fill the trench with the earth previously dug up and place the remaining earth on top. This will create a mound of earth over the trench which will settle down over the next couple of months. In the end, at May / June time you should end up with a small mound over the trench which is ideal for planting your Runner Beans. The kitchen waste below the soil will have rotted down nicely to provide top quality body, nutrients and drainage to the soil.
The above is the ideal, and it really does produce a bumper crop of runner beans but if you are reading this article in May / June time then of course it’s too late. But at least you will know what to do next year! If time is at a premium then dig the soil well and add a good dose of blood, fish and bone at the rate of two handfuls per square metre / yard.
Runner Beans are not particularly fussy about sunlight. Shade all the time won’t suit them but partial shade or full sun will do equally well. You do need to remember that a 1.8m / 6ft wall of foliage will cast a considerable shadow so consider carefully other plants nearby when deciding where to grow your Runner Beans.
It is a common misconception that Runner Beans need full sunlight and heat all the day, in fact too much sun and heat can cause them to fail to set a crop even though they may produce lots of flowers. This may or may not be a problem for your depending on the weather conditions in your area.
In a four year crop rotation plan runner beans are included with others of the bean (legume) family. In reality however they cause very little build up of problems in the soil and can be grown anywhere. For convenience sake many gardeners erect permanent supports for runner beans and grow them in the same position year after year with no ill affects. This subject of beans and crop rotation is discussed in more detail here.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW / PLANT RUNNER BEANS
Having prepared the soil as described in the previous paragraph decide which of the three methods below you want to use to sow the beans. Consider also the possibility of buying garden centre raised seedlings and planting them out in the last week of May. Although the choice of varieties will be restricted this method does bypass lots of the work of raising the plants from seed.
A key point to remember when sowing runner beans is do NOT start them off too early, especially important if you start the beans off indoors. This is a common mistake made by those eager to raise an early crop. Runner beans will be killed by even the smallest hint of a frost so they must be planted out only when all danger of frost has passed – see the calendar above and the methods below for specific dates (customise those dates your area by clicking here).
Combine that with the fact that when runner beans have germinated they grow tall very quickly and start to become unmanageable in pots indoors after much more than two to three weeks. See the two pictures below.
The runner bean seedling above was sown only nine days before this picture was taken. It shows just how quickly this vegetable develops when sown indoors.
The picture above however shows the roots of the same plant and illustrates just how quickly they have grown. This plant will need to be potted up in three to four days time.
Runner Beans need a soil temperature (that’s not the same as the air temperature) of around 10°C / 50°F or higher to germinate, which is on the low side compared to many other vegetables. They will take roughly a week to appear after being sown.
SOW RUNNER BEANS IN POTS INDOORS / UNHEATED GREENHOUSE
This is the most reliable method because the seedlings will not be attacked by mice, slugs or snails at the early stage of their development. Slugs and snails can easily decimate your entire crop at the seedling stage. Start sowing beans in pots indoors during the first week of May The germination rate is exceptionally good using this method.
As soon as the beans germinate they will begin to sprout roots which are longer and quicker growing than most other vegetables. For this reason we recommend that you use taller pots compared to the normal ones if you plan to keep the plants in the pots for much longer than a fortnight.
The inner cardboard tubes from toilet rolls are ideal for this purpose although you may need to start collecting these a couple of months before using them to have the correct number – friends and family always seem to willing to help in this task!
We have put a reminder in the calendar near the top of this page as well as in our combined vegetable growing calendar. If you have no long type pots / tubes then a standard 10cm / 4in diameter pot is the next best.
Take a 10cm / 4in pot, fill with multi-purpose compost to just below the top. Make a hole about 5cm / 2in deep in the compost, drop the seed in and cover with compost. The procedure is the same when using toilet roll cardboard inners.
However, first fill a seed tray with compost and then set the toilet roll inners 2cm / 1 in into the top of the compost before filling them with compost. Your average seed tray can take about 15 tubes. In this way when the roots reach the bottom of the tube they can then spread out into the compost in the seed tray.
Keep the compost moist and place the pot in a warmish place (dark or light). Keep a watch on the pots daily and immediately the seedlings appear (roughly seven days after sowing indoors) move the pots to a light and airy windowsill or a frost free greenhouse.
The roots especially on newly sown runner bean plants develop extremely quickly and about one week after the seedling appears above the compost they will need to potted on into a larger container. A 15cm to 20cm (6in to 8in) wide pot is the correct size and the plants should be OK for a week or two longer.
A week or so before the runner beans are to be planted outside in their final positions they will need to be hardened off. The purpose of this is to acclimatise the plants to outside conditions.
Before planting the hardened off beans in the last week of May you need to put up the supports (1.8m to 2.4m bamboo canes) which they will need later on. All manner of methods are used the commonest being:
a pyramid shape where 6 or so bamboo canes are arranged in a circle tied together at the top, 60cm / 2ft in diameter with two plants at the base of each cane.
another classic is the simple arch where the two rows of canes are spaced about 60cm / 2ft apart at soil level and tied together at the top.
to avoid congesting the top of the supports two rows of canes can be arranged upright and supported by cross bars
A pyramid of runner beans
To plant the seedlings dig a hole just slightly bigger than the pot / cardboard tube. When using the cardboard tubes, plant the whole thing in the soil and firm gently around it. The cardboard will soon rot down allowing the roots to expand near the surface. For the pots, turn out the the plant from the pot and plant it in the soil. Water well whichever method is used.
SOWING SEED DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL OUTSIDE
Sowing the beans outside is simply a matter of erecting the supports (see above) and then sowing two beans at the base of each bamboo cane. The seed should be sown about 5cm / 2in deep. Water them in well. We don’t really recommend this method because if the mice don’t eat the beans, the slugs and snails will eat the seedlings as they emerge. The best time to sow outside is in the last week of May.
SOWING DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL UNDER CLOCHES
To gain the best use from your cloches place them out over the planting area two weeks before sowing the beans. This will warm up the soil to a surprising degree. Sow the beans exactly as described above, however the supports can only be erected after the cloches have been removed (about two weeks after the seedlings emerge). If the weather becomes unusually warm, remove the cloches during the day to allow air to circulate. Remove the cloches permanently, four weeks after sowing.
GROWING RUNNER BEANS IN CONTAINERS
Dwarf runner beans grow very well in containers as long as you keep them well watered. They may require watering twice a day in warm weather although there are a couple of things you can do to reduce this. There are two key varieties of dwarf runner beans which are widely grown and with good reason.
Pickwick is the well established favourite and it rarely fails. Lots of beautiful orange flowers followed by a very decent crop of stringless runner beans. Highly recommended.
A more recent variety is Hestia which produces a very similar crop of stringless beans but has the added benefit of producing red and white flowers. again, highly recommended.
The next consideration after choosing a suitable variety is which container to grow it in. As with many other vegetables, the larger the container the better. Larger containers reduce the need for frequent watering. Our suggestion is that a container of 45cm / 18in per plant will be about right. Slightly smaller is OK although you will need to be very vigilant about watering in warm weather.
To reduce the need for watering a layer of stones or woodchip over the soil surface makes a remarkable difference by reducing condensation. If you plan to go on holiday for a week and can’t persuade or don’t trust a neighbour to water your plants the best solution is to move the container to a very shady position out of the wind. This will reduce their need for water dramatically and they suffer very little in these conditions for a week or so.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF RUNNER BEANS
The traditional runner bean (they have been grown in parts of South America for over 2,000 years) grows to around 1.8m / 6ft high and needs support and to be tied into those supports. Genetic mutations have occurred which resulted in dwarf varieties growing to about 45cm / 18in high and requiring much less support.
This article is concerned primarily with growing the taller growing runner beans although much of the cultivation methods are the same. Dwarf varieties are great as decorative plants but when grown outside the pods are so low to the ground that they end up being splashed by mud. They are however well suited to growing in containers.
When stored correctly in dark, cool and dry conditions runner bean seeds will keep well for three years.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above. Our Runner Bean comment / question and answer page
lists their comments,
questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you
have.
By David Marks
Rhubarb is often used in the kitchen as if it was a fruit but it is most definitely a vegetable. Of all the vegetables it has three outstanding qualities – it loves the cold British winters and only a very late frost can damage the crop.
Its second top quality is that it produces a crop of delicious stalks as early as the beginning of March and will continue to provide stalks until late June. Finally, rhubarb is almost indestructible although some tender loving care and attention will definitely produce a much better harvest.
CALENDAR FOR GROWING RHUBARB
Plant one year old crowns – late October to early March
Begin harvesting rhubarb stalksthe second week of March
Apply a layer of mulch around the plantsthe second week of May
Feed with blood, fish and bone / and or manure – Spring and Autumn
Weed and remove flowering heads – throughout the growing season
Remove and compost stalks and leaves after first hard frost – the first week of December onwards
PLANTING RHUBARB
Rhubarb plants can be bought from garden centres for planting or can be cut from existing plants (see rhubarb propagation below). Either way, the planting process is the same (read below). The best time to plant rhubarb is in mid to late autumn time, October to December is about right but up to mid March will also be OK.
Rhubarb is very tolerant of most soil conditions but it does not like being waterlogged which only encourages crown rot. Too much water is bad for rhubarb but is does appreciate a constant supply of moisture.
They also do well if fed with well-rotted manure or organic long-lasting fertilisers such as blood, fish and bone. As far as sun goes they prefer semi-shade, with some shade especially to protect them from the hot summer midday and afternoon weather.
When you receive your plant check that the soil surface in the pot is weed free because weeding later on can be a problem with rhubarb. Dig a hole which is twice as wide as the rhubarb roots and add lots of compost mixed in with soil until the hole is just slightly wider compared to the rhubarb root.
You need to place the plant in the hole so that the soil in the pot is just slightly deeper than the soil level. If is is planted too deep then there is a risk of crown rot, if not deep enough then the new plant may dry out. See our amateur diagram on the right for a clearer explanation.
Fill in around your rhubarb plant with crumbly soil and multi-purpose compost. gently firm down as you fill in with soil and then firm down the final soil surface. Water well.
The only difference between planting a pot grown rhubarb and one which has been cut from an existing plant is that the pot grown one may well have some growth above the surface whereas a cut plant will have no growth.
PROPAGATING RHUBARB PLANTS
Rhubarb can be propagated in three ways although only one method is really practical for the amateur gardener. The most impractical (nigh on impossible for the amateur) is to propagate from the flesh of the rhubarb. Professional growers do this to ensure the plant material is entirely free from disease but the equipment and experience involved is extensive.
The second method is to grow rhubarb from seed, however this is a long process and rhubarb seed often does not grow true to type so you may well take several years to grow rhubarb from seed only to find that the plant produces a very poor crop.
The remaining method of propagation is to divide a rhubarb and this is the method which almost all amateur gardener’s use. If you use your own rhubarb crowns or those of a fellow gardener, it’s free and at the same time it’s almost foolproof.
The best time to divide an existing rhubarb plant is when it is four or more years old. Division of the plant will improve its vigour not reduce it and you will in all probability end up with three or more separate plants. In order to avoid stress to the plant being divided and give the best best chance of success to the new one, late October to mid January is the best time for division to take place.
Dig up the rhubarb and remove most of the loose earth from it. We suggest dividing a five year old crown into three pieces and the best way to do this is to take a clean spade and use it to chop the crown into three pieces. Try to make the cuts as clean as possible without hacking at it too much. This may sound a bit barbarian but it is the best way to divide rhubarb crowns. The centre of the crown is the least suitable portion, the outer parts are the best as long as each has a growing point in them.
Planting is exactly the same as described in the previous section of this page. For information on caring for your rhubarb as it grows click one of the links below.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above. Our Rhubarb comment / question and answer page
lists their comments, questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you have.
By David Marks
Peas fresh from the garden, and by fresh we mean up to an hour old, are one of nature’s delights. This is one vegetable where the supermarkets simply can’t produce a comparable crop. Fresh is most definitely best.Another great advantage of peas is their preference for cooler conditions and production of a crop early in the year. This makes them ideal for the British climate. With dwarf, semi-dwarf and climbing varieties one of them is sure to fit into your garden or allotment.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EARLY AND MAINCROP PEAS
When you buy your pea seeds they will be classified as one of three types based on how long they take to be ready for harvest.
EARLIES
As the name suggests these can be harvested the earliest of all peas. They take about 12 weeks from sowing to harvest.
SECOND EARLIES
These are a sub-division of earlies and they take about 14 weeks from sowing to harvest
MAINCROP
These are the traditional, slightly later peas and take about 16 weeks to reach harvest time. This group includes the climbing peas.
QUICK CALENDAR FOR SOWING AND GROWING PEAS IN THE AREA
Before using the calendar below, have you adjusted it to your weather conditions? If not:
Not only will the calendar below be correct for your area but all dates in this site will also be adjusted. Your setting will last for six months or more and still be set when you revisit this site. If you prefer not to adjust the dates they will be the average for the UK.
Pea seeds for sowing
Sow pea seeds under cloches the last week of February
Sow pea seeds indoors during the first week of March
Start to sow pea seed outdoors during the second week of March
Harvest earlies from the last week of May
Harvest maincrop peas from the last week of June
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR GROWING PEAS
Peas are classified as “legume” vegetables for the purposes of crop rotation. It is essential not to grow them on the same soil in two years running. A three year rotation plan should be sufficient to avoid any build up of pests. For details of a suggested crop rotation plan, click here.
Like many vegetables peas do best in a full-sun position with a well-dug, water retaining soil. Full sun is not critical for maincrop peas which can cope well with partial shade but early varieties do need lots of sun. They hate water logged soil and seeds will not germinate if the weather is cold and the soil very wet.
To improve your chances of success with early peas cover the planting area with black plastic or cloches a week or so prior to planting. This will warm up the soil and stop too much rain water logging it.
For us, the best pea is the climbing variety Alderman. This can produce truly large crops of peas over a long period so we take care to prepare the soil especially we for this variety. See our in depth description of the Alderman pea variety (sometimes known as the “Victorian Colossal Climbing Pea”) not only for the pest free nature and massive crops of this variety but also how to prepare the ground to make the most of its cropping potential.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW PEA SEEDS IN THE the last week of February
There is a misconception amongst many gardeners that early pea varieties such as Kelvedon Wonder
should be sown earlier than maincrop varieties such as Alderman but this is not true. All peas seeds should be sown at the same time, it’s just that early varieties mature quicker compared to maincrop varieties.
What does define the time when peas are best sown is the soil temperature and this is influenced by two factors:
the natural soil temperature in your area of the UK which varies greatly from one area to the other the second week of March
if you artificially raise the soil temperature using cloches, black plastic covering or similar mechanisms. the first week of March
The diagram below shows natural soil temperature averages (in °C), firstly in warm areas of the UK (the red line) and in cooler areas (the blue line). The majority of areas in the UK will fall somewhere between these two lines. The chart shows the average of day and night time temperatures and you can assume that the day time temperature is about 2°C higher than the averages shown below.
The soil temperature is the key to sowing pea seeds early enough so that you end up with an early crop but not so early that the seeds fail to germinate. If the temperature is high enough for just a couple of hours, pea seeds will start the germination process.
The soil temperature range at which pea seeds germinate is between 42°F / 6°C up to 82°F / 28°C. If cloches are in place, or the ground is covered in plastic, the soil temperature will be approximately 2°C higher. With the factors above in mind the following seed sowing dates are recommended:
sow pea seeds under cloches / black plastic during
sow pea seeds directly in the ground during
There are two main types of peas as far as planting is concerned, climbing peas which will grow to 2.1m / 7ft high if you let them (e.g. Alderman) and dwarf peas (e.g.Kelvedon Wonder) which will grow to a height of anything between 60cm / 2ft to 1.2m / 4ft.
SOWING DWARF PEA SEEDS
Peas of this type will be partly self-supporting and require only short twigs or sticks to keep them upright. For this reason they are best sown quite densely and with two or three plants wide per row. Dig out shallow trench about 5cm / 2in deep and 15cm / 6in wide. If the soil is dry give it a good watering.
There is no need for precision when sowing the seeds, just scatter them in the trench so that they are about 2cm / ¾in apart. You could, if you want, sow three neat lines of seeds in the trench but it won’t make any difference. The seeds will almost all germinate in good dryish weather but birds love to eat them and mice can very often be a problem. If you know that you are likely to be troubled by either pest then cover the soil with wire netting (the best bet for preventing mice damage) or horticultural fleece. The fleece should be removed when the peas have germinated and are about 2cm / ¾in high.
Question and Answer: Do pea seedlings need to to be thinned?
The short answer is no. At a spacing of 2cm / ¾in apart peas will grow fine and will not need to be thinned.You need a lot of pea plants to grow a plentiful crop of peas!
If you need to sow more then one row then space each row about 30cm / 1ft apart at least. The reason for spacing the rows is simply to enable you to get between them to harvest the peas.
SOWING CLIMBING PEA SEEDS
There are many methods for sowing climbing peas and they differ slightly depending on the support method you plan to use. All the peas though should be sown at a depth of about 5cm / 2in. With climbing peas you will need to erect the supports before sowing your peas. A wigwam always looks attractive as does two single rows about 45cm / 18in apart with the canes tied together at the top.
Peas wont grow up canes like runner beans they need more support for their tendrils to grab hold of and climb up. Pea netting is good for this spread over the canes but string tied onto the canes horizontally at 15cm / 6in intervals will also do the same job at less cost. Sow three seeds at the base of every cane used. No thinning of the seedlings is required.
SOWING PEAS INDOORS
If you want to get a head start with your pea plants it’s easy to sow them indoors or in a greenhouse. In fill an 8cm / 3in pot with multi-purpose compost, make a hole about 5cm 2in deep and drop a seed in. Cover with compost, water well and place in a cool place indoors. The seedlings will emerge in just under a week. As soon as they do, move the seedlings to a light position (not in direct sunlight) and let them grow on until they are about 12cm / 5in high.
Pea seedlings
The picture of pea seedlings above show them when they are about 6cm / 2in high. They are best left for another week. The reason for this is that pigeons and others find the tips of very young pea seedling irresistible. By waiting until the plants are 12cm / 5in high, pigeons will find them less attractive.
Harden the seedlings off over a week and then plant them outside in their final positions. Pea plants started off indoors in pots (and are then hardened off for a week or so) are hardy to a large degree and will stand a frost down to minus 3C with little or no damage at all.
The germination rate for peas sown outside is good, about 80% is normal. The same goes for those sown indoors. You can pre-germinate the seeds indoors and avoid planting ones which fail to germinate.
Wet a kitchen towel, place the seeds on it and cover with another moist kitchen towel. Place them in a cool room indoors and check them after 24 hors to see if they have sprouted. If they haven’t, wait another 12 hours and check again. Ideally you want to sow them in pots as described above as soon as a small sprout appears.
The picture above shows a couple of pea seeds which have sprouted slightly longer than is ideal but they will still be fine to sow in multi-purpose if you take care not to break the root and stem shoots.
CARING FOR YOUR PEA PLANTS
When grown on a well-prepared soil (adding lots of compostedorganic matter) the main care need of peas is a regular supply of water especially when the pods are forming. Don’t water log the soil but keep it moist. Weeds also need to be kept to a minimum to avoid competition for water and nutrients. A layer of well-rotted compost around the growing plants will help them grow well.
As far as nutrients are concerned don’t add nitrogen fertilisers such as Growmore, this will only encourage leafy growth at the expense of pea production. Peas generate enough nitrogen of their own in little nodules which form on the roots. We feed once a month withblood, fish and bone although this is done on all our soil not just peas.
Climbing peas should have their supports put in place when seeds are sown as mentioned above. Most dwarf peas will need gentle support, especially some of the taller varieties. Use twigs and sticks to do this. We have found that raspberry bush prunings are ideal for this purpose and we keep them from year to year for just this purpose – they normally last two to three years.
Pea plants are self-pollinating and have no need of insects or wind as far as pollination is concerned. So, if the grown under netting or a vegetable cage they will still produce a crop of peas.
WHEN TO HARVEST YOUR PEAS
Our pea calendar at the top of this page can be adjusted for your area of the UK to give you an approximate idea of when to harvest. But in reality it all depends on how big you like your peas. Many varieties can be harvested early as a mange tout crop, give it a try and see what they taste like. Some people like their crop to be “petit pois” size and others appreciate the excellent digestive qualities of overgrown peas whilst most prefer them to be somewhere in between. Whatever your tastes, don’t waste the larger ones, use them forpea and ham (or just plain pea) soup.
Pea plants produce of their best when harvested regularly, this encourages them to produce more pods. At the end of their useful life cut the tops off and add to the compost heap. The roots can be left in the ground to rot down and provide body for your soil next year.
Recent investigations have revealed that the little nodules which peas produce on their roots only provide the plants with nitrogen, they are totally ineffective at fertilising the soil with nitrogen. Beware of articles on peas which claim otherwise because they are out of date. In reality the nitrogen in pea root nodules transfers to the pea pods when they start to form and almost none is left in the roots when the peas are harvested.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF PEAS
Decide first if you want to grow dwarf varieties, climbers or both. We would highly recommend giving climbers a try. They have gone out of fashion slightly but they produce the biggest crop of the sweetest peas with very reduced pest and disease problems. Next read our independent review of pea varieties which are suitable for growing in the UK.
DWARF PEA VARIETIES
EARLY ONWARD
Early Onward are one of the most reliable varieties of peas, producing a good crop in almost all years. Slightly larger than average pods with an average of seven peas per pod …….Click here for the full review of this variety.
KELVEDON WONDER
An early maincrop variety which is repeatedly recommended by amateur gardeners in all parts of the UK. Reliable and well-tried, it produces a good crop of peas (eight per pod).Click here for the full review of this variety.
MISTY
Can be grown without support because this is a very compact plant. An excellent crop of peas which are held well above ground level.
METEOR
This is classed as a first early variety which is fine for some uses but flavour is definitely not the best. Click here for the full review of the Meteor pea variety.
PEA CLIMBERS
ALDERMAN
Alderman is also known as Victorian Colossal Climbing. This gets our recommendation as the tastiest pea variety of all. Massive crops with great resistance to pests and diseases. Click here for the full review of this variety.
PESTS AND DISEASES OF PEAS
There are three key pests / diseases which affect peas. They are Pea Moth, Mildew and Pea Leaf Weevil. We have a page dedicated to identifying and treating these problems which can be found here.
HOW TO SAVE PEA SEEDS
When you are harvesting peas, leave some of the pods (expect a minimum of six peas per pod) on the plant to harden off. When the pods are dry, on a dry day pull them off and keep them in a cool, dark and dry place for a day or so more.
Prise the pods open, they should be crispy dry at this stage, and remove the peas. Quickly examine the pea seeds and if any have dark marks on them then throw the affected ones away. Label up an envelope or small paper bag and store the pea seeds in a cool, dry and dark place until they are ready to be used next year.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS ABOUT PEAS LEFT BY OUR READERS
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above. Our Pea comment / question and answer page
lists their comments, questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you
have.
By David Marks
Lettuce forms the basis of almost all salads with the gardening books and online articles making out that they are relatively easy to grow, one of the simpler vegetables. In truth there are several rules you need to follow, none of them complicated but together essential, that must be followed for a good crop of lettuce.We aim to simplify the process but at the same time clearly identify the key essential steps to grow perfect lettuce in plain and simple language.
TYPES OF LETTUCE
There are several different types of lettuce and it’s a matter of personal preference which you prefer. All are capable of being grown in the UK but we have yet to see iceberg types of lettuce being grown successfully in the UK by amateur gardeners. This article restricts itself to the following types of lettuce for the amateur gardener, Cos (sometimes called Romaine), butterhead and loose leaf lettuces. For more information on the different types of lettuce click here.
CALENDAR FOR GROWING LETTUCE IN THE
Sow seed in pots indoors – The last week of February
Sow seeds under cloches – The second week of March
Sow seed outside – The last week of March
Plant out indoor sown lettuce – The third week of March
Begin to harvestThe fourth week of July
WHERE TO GROW LETTUCE
The soil needs to water retentive above all because lettuce require a constant supply of water if they are to grow evenly and avoid bolting. A fairly neutral soil is good for lettuce and they prefer a good supply of nutrients. A sprinkling of blood, fish and bone at the rate of a good handful per square metre will suit lettuces well – do this a couple of weeks before seed is sown / seedling are planted.
At the start of the growing season, up to mid-June, lettuce will do best in full sun. Past this, and up to the end of August, they would prefer some partial shade because lettuces prefer cool conditions. These conditions are not always easy to achieve however and lettuce are in general very tolerant of both sun and partial shade at any time of the year.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW LETTUCE SEEDS
Some lettuce seeds are sold as “split-pill” seeds and this often confuses. A split-pill seed is one where the outer casing is slightly broken open to allow quicker and easier germination. It does not affect the “when” and “how to” sow as far as seeds are concerned.We can find no independent data to indicate that “split-pill” seeds are any better at germination compared to standard seeds.
The germination temperature for lettuce seeds is anything in the range of 2°C / 35°F, the optimum temperature range is 15°C / 59°F to 19°C / 67°F. Although lettuce seed have an amazing ability to germinate at low temperatures, the lower the temperature outside of the optimum range. the slower and more erratic the germination will be. Above 20°C / 69°F the germination rate of lettuce seed will also deteriorate.
When considering the germination temperature of lettuce seed, it is only important for the first couple of days after the seeds have been sown. The minute the seed sprouts (the little initial sprout is called the radicle) the temperature, as far as germination is concerned, is unimportant. So, this means that if you sow lettuce seeds in pots and keep them at 15°C / 59°F to 19°C / 67°F for three days they can then be moved to cooler or warmer conditions depending on your situation.
It’s very important to prepare the soil before sowing seed or planting seedlings. The soil should be well dug and the surface should be raked over to a fine tilth and be reasonably even. Only if the soil surface is even and a fine tilth will you be able to sow the seeds at the correct depth.
The individual sowing and planting methods described below can be used for sowing lettuce seeds in spring and harvesting from late spring onwards. If you are sowing in autumn for an early winter crop (common with several butterhead varieties) then sow only directly in the soil outside.
SOWING LETTUCE SEED DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL OUTSIDE
This is the simplest method and will have a very good success rate if the soil is prepared as described above. If slug and snail damage is a known problem in your garden / allotment then you might be better off sowing the seed in pots and only transplanting to their final position when they are large enough to avoid serious damage by slugs and snails. Don’t sow all the seeds at the same time, sow some every week or so to ensure a good supply of lettuces over a long period of time. Start sowing in seed in and continue to sow small amounts of seeds weekly or fortnightly over the next 10 weeks.
Sowing seed directly in the soil during July and August will result in poor seed germination because the soil temperature is likely to be too high. However sowing can resume for a couple of weeks in September when the weather is cooler.
Draw a shallow line in the soil with a pencil / dibber or similar to a depth of about 1.5cm / ½in. Lightly sprinkle the seed into the soil line at the rate of about 1 seed per centimetre. With such fine seed it’s difficult to sow at the correct rate but it’s not crucial. Cover the seeds gently with soil and then water in using a watering can with a fine rose.
SOWING LETTUCE DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL UNDER CLOCHES
For earlier crops compared to the sowing method above the seeds can sown with cloche protection. Place the cloches over the soil for a couple of weeks before the first sowing in. The method of sowing the seed is exactly as described above. Remove the cloches when the weather warms up, normally in about five weeks time.
SOWING LETTUCE SEED IN POTS INDOORS
The aim behind this method of sowing lettuce seeds is to grow the earliest crop of lettuces possible. The seed is sown in pots indoors, then transferred outside with cloche protection and then the cloches are removed. The process can omit the cloche stage if there is lots of space indoors / in a greenhouse.
In fill pots or seed modules nearly to the top with general purpose multi-compost. Sow three lettuce seeds per pot and cover lightly with more compost. Water if the compost is dry and then place the pots in a temperature of 15°C / 59°F to 19°C / 67°F. the seedlings should appear after five days or so and the pots can then be moved to somewhere cool but frost free. Keep the seedlings growing on in a light position but not in direct sunlight.
Around plant outside in their final positions under cloches (a couple of weeks later if no cloches). Remove the cloches in three weeks time.
WHY GROW YOUR OWN LETTUCE?
Finding out exactly how commercial lettuce is produced can prove very difficult, the producers seem unwilling to publicise exactly how that bag of supermarket mixed salad, for example, has been treated before it reaches you. The following seems clear:
It has been sprayed multiple times with various chemicals during the growing process.
In all likelihood it has been packed in a nitrogen / carbon dioxide enhanced atmosphere. Ever wondered why bagged lettuce leaves are sold in pumped up bags? It’s because the “air” in the bag is not real air but is modified to prevent the contents discolouring as it ages. This enables the supermarkets to sell old lettuce which just looks fresh.
Unless the pack says differently, and not many do, the lettuce in the bag will have been washed in a chlorine solution far more concentrated than the water in a public swimming pool and they don’t rinse the chlorine off before it reaches you!
The whole process ensures that bagged lettuce is several days old before you eat it. It may look good in the bag but much of the nutrient value and taste has disappeared long before you eat it.
Here are a couple of articles on bagged lettuce production; Countryfile, Healthy Food. They all come to the same conclusion, eating chlorine is not good for you and eating four or more day old salad is also a waste of time whatever has been pumped into the bag to preserve the contents well after its natural life.
By David Marks
You can buy a packet of Musselburgh (or similar) leek seeds for 99p and that packet will contain
approximately 750 seeds.Those seeds, if stored in cool dry conditions, will easily keep for four years. Now
that’s a real value for money vegetable. Enough for four years with some left over for friends at less than
a pound!Other attributes of leeks include, they are easy to grow, suffer from few diseases and they produce
a crop from November (earlier if you want) through to March / April when very little else is growing.Before using the calendar below, have you adjusted it to the weather conditions in your area? If not click here to do that. The calendar below be correct for your area and all dates in this site will also be adjusted.
Your setting will last for six months or more and still be set when you revisit this site. If you prefer not to
adjust the dates they will be the average for the UK.
QUICK CALENDAR FOR GROWING LEEKS IN THE UK
The calendar below covers growing leeks using three different methods, each step is described in more detail further down this page:
SOW SEED UNDER GLASS OR INDOORS IN LATE WINTER – METHOD 1
The objective behind this method is to grow small leeks which will be ready for eating in July / August.
SOW SEEDS OUTDOORS IN LATE MARCH TO LATE APRIL – METHOD 2
The cheapest and most reliable method of producing a late autumn to early spring crop of leeks. The
leeks are either sown in containers or in the open ground. Around June time they are transplanted to
their final positions in open ground.
BUY YOUNG LEEK PLANTS FROM GARDEN CENTRES IN MAY / JUNE – METHOD 3
Also a very reliable method and definitely the easiest. They are planted in situ and left to grow for a
late autumn to early spring harvest.
Sow seed in containers and place under glass / indoors – the first week to second weeks of February
Thin seedlings sown in containers –the first week to second weeks of March
Sow seed outside in a temporary seed bed in well dug soil – the second week of April
Harden off container grown seedlings – the fourth week of April
Transplant container grown seedlings to outside final position – the first to second weeks of May 2017
Thin seedlings from seeds sown outdoors – the second week of May
Water all (methods 1 and 2) seedlings well until well established – up to early July
Buy leek seedlings from garden centres and plant outside in final position – the fourth week of May
Transplant spring sown seedlings to their final position – the first week of June
Begin to harvest winter sown leeks when young – the second week of August
Methods 2 AND 3, begin to earth up strong growing leeks – the third week of August
Methods 2 AND 3, continue earthing up – the last week of August to the second week of September
Methods 2 AND 3, harvest leeks – the last week of October onwards
TOP PERFORMING VARIETIES OF LEEKS
MUSSELBURGH
One of the best known of varieties with very strong looking plants. Click here for much more detailed information on Musselburgh leeks.
ATLANTA
This variety was awarded an AGM in 2009 and is still probably the best autumn leek variety. The white part of the stem is thick and long and it keep well to at least March. This is an F1 variety so although the seed heads look spectacular they will not come true to type.
TOLEDO
Another excellent leek variety with an AGM award. Long white stems, it keeps supremely well and has attractive dark green-blue foliage. Easy to grow, it produces large leeks.
GERMINATING LEEK SEEDS
Leek seeds will germinate in a very wide range of temperatures, from 7.5°C to 32°C (45°F to 90°F). The optimum for germination is a daytime temperature of about 21°C (70°F) and several degrees lower at night. Bear these temperatures in mind when choosing one of the three cultural methods below. When leeks have germinated they will sprout grass like growth above ground and from this stage onwards lower temperatures (within reason) will not greatly affect their growth.
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR GROWING LEEKS
Leeks are part of the onion family and it’s essential that they are not planted in the same soil every year. A three or four year rotation plan should be sufficient to avoid any build up of pests. For details of a suggested crop rotation plan, click here.
It’s no surprise that a well-drained soil which has lots of nutrients in it is best for leeks. However, if your soil is far from ideal then leeks are one vegetable which will make the best of the conditions it is planted in. They will be in the soil over winter so a water-logged site will definitely be a problem and need improvement. A full sun position is best although leeks can still be grown well in partial shade.
Choose a sunny site and dig it over well adding lots of organic matter to the soil, this is best done a month or so before the seed is sown but it’s not critical. Remove as many stones as possible so that the leeks can grow long and straight without any obstructions. When you are digging, add a long lasting fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone (a good handful sprinkled over every square metre / yard).
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW LEEK SEED
Leek seed can be sown in pots under glass / indoors during winter (method 1 in the calendar above) or directly in the ground in spring (method 2 in the calendar above).
SOWING LEEK SEED UNDER GLASS / INDOORS
Sow leeks under glass / indoors in the first week to second weeks of February. Leek seeds can be sown in individual pots or in seed trays, it really depends on the space you have available to grow them on and how many you want to grow. We recommend growing them in pots because seed trays are not normally deep enough to allow the roots to grow to their full extent up to the time they can be transplanted outside.
You need the pot to be 15cm /6in deep or more and each leek seedling will eventually be thinned out to 2.5cm / 1in apart. So if your pot width is 10cm / 4in you will be able to thin the seedlings to four in a pot, larger pots can be used to grow larger numbers of seedlings.
Fill each pot with standard potting compost to about 2cm (¾in) from the top and gently firm the compost down. Water the pots by placing them in a shallow container with 2cm / 1in or so of water.
Evenly sow the seeds on the surface of the compost and then sprinkle another 1cm (¼in) of compost over the top. Leek seeds are small but still large enough to handle individually (see picture below). Sow about twice the number of seeds as the pot will eventually accommodate. For example a a 10cm / 4in wide pot will eventually be thinned to four seedlings therefore you will need to sow about eight seeds – for a 20cm / 8in pot sow 16 seeds and so on.
Leek seeds (click picture to enlarge)
You can sow more seeds per pot but you will only be making work for yourself because they will need to be thinned out later.
Leek seeds sown in 10cm wide pots
Place the pots in a warmish place, 16°C to 21°C (60°F to 70°F) during the day and slightly cooler at night. At this stage it’s not important if the pots are in light or dark. Leek seedlings take from 10 to 14 days to germinate. When they do germinate they will appear above the surface looking like blades of grass. You can expect most of the seeds to germinate.
As soon as the seedlings appear move the pots to a position with lots of light. If you have sown the seed in a seed tray, thin the seedlings to 2cm (¾in) apart to avoid overcrowding. At this stage of their life up to the point when you begin to harden them off, a temperature range of 13°C to 18°C (55°F to 65°F) is ideal but leeks are very tolerant of temperature.
Leek seedlings
Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Every couple of weeks water with a general purpose liquid feed at the recommended rate on the pack. When the seedlings are about 3cm / 1in high (see picture above)thin out the seedlings so that they are about 2cm apart.
SOWING LEEK SEEDS OUTSIDE IN SPRING
Sow leeks outside in the second week of April. When sowing leek seed outside the best method is to sow them in a seed bed where they can grow for the first few months of their life and then transfer them to their final position. Seeds sown in a seed bed are spaced much closer compared to their final positions. The main advantage of this method is that up to June, the leeks take up much less room allowing other crops such as lettuce to be grown early in the year in the unoccupied space.
The second advantage is that when you transplant the young leeks from the seed bed to their final position they can be planted in a manner which reduces the risk of soil becoming embedded in the growing leeks. It is quite possible to sow leek seed in their final position and miss out on the transplant stage.
To sow leek seed in a seed bed draw a straight line in the soil (use a pencil or plant marker) about 1cm (¼in) deep. Sow the seeds in the line, one seed every 2cm (¾in) and sprinkle over some fine soil or potting compost. Firm the soil down gently. Rows of seed should be spaced 10cm / 4in apart. Water well with fine spray and keep the area moist if the weather is dry.
The seedlings will emerge in about 14 to 20 days time and they will look like blades of grass. When they do appear, water with a general purpose liquid fertiliser (see pack for the recommended dosage rate). Keep the soil bed moist but not waterlogged. Every two weeks repeat the application of general purpose liquid fertiliser.
PLANTING YOUNG LEEKS
The process for planting winter sown and spring sown leeks (as well as small leek plants bought in garden centres) is exactly the same as described below. However, winter sown leeks will need to be hardened off before planting outside. Winter sown leeks should be ready for transplanting in the first to second weeks of May 2017 whereas spring sown leeks will be ready for transplanting in the first week of June. Growing conditions will differ each year so the above dates are approximate. The other method for judging when to transplant leeks is when they are about the width of a knitting needle or pencil. Ideally they should also be about 20cm (8in) tall. See the picture below which can be enlarged by clicking on it.
Leek plants the width of a pencil,
ready for transplanting.
Plant your leeks in rows which are 40cm / 16in apart with the spacing between each plant 15cm / 6in. If you want very large individual leeks increase the spacing between plants.
For each plant make a hole in the soil to a depth of 15cm /6in using a dibber (rounded piece of wood about 3cm / 1¼in wide). Many articles suggest using the handle of a broken spade or fork but we have desperately been waiting for fifteen years for ours to break without luck!
Wood branch for making holes in the ground
to plant leeks.
Drop the leek into the hole (roots downwards) and gently settle it into the base of the hole. Fill the hole with water, this will cause just enough soil to cover the roots and at the same time ensure the soil is fully watered. Don’t fill in with soil, the plants will be fine as they are.
Many books and websites recommend trimming the roots and the tops of leeks just before planting them but they never have any research which indicates whether this is good for the plants or not. After years of my own research I can confirm that trimmed or not they all the grow the same. So do yourself a favour and save yourself the trouble of trimming them, it’s just an unnecessary job.
CARING FOR LEEKS
Leeks need moist (but not water-logged) soil throughout their life. The roots are very shallow and the plants quickly suffer in dry conditions. So keep an eye on them and water in dry periods.Weed the area around the plants to prevent competition for water and nutrients.
A couple of weeks after planting, feed the plants with a liquid general purpose fertiliser. Feed again a couple of weeks later with a long-lasting fertiliser such as bonemeal or blood, fish and bone (a good handful per square metre / yard).
The tastiest part of a leek is the lower white part of the stem although the green top part can also be used. To increase the length of the white part of the stem (a process called blanching) you will need to earth up around the stem. Earthing up is simply dragging soil from nearby so that creates a mound of soil around the stem of the leek. By drawing up soil around the stem as the plant grows you are excluding light from getting at the stem which effectively keeps it white. It is important to do this in stages because you want to avoid any getting any earth between the leaves and the stem.
Begin the blanching process in the third week of August and continue it for the next month or so as the leeks grow taller. If you use the process described above be careful not to earth up the soil too far because earth and small pieces of grit can get lodged between the growing leaves which makes cleaning the leeks for cooking a problem.
An alternative to earthing up (or in addition to it) is to cover the lower part of the growing stem with cardboard (often the centre tube of a toilet roll is used) or a pipe insulator. This also excludes light and encourages a longer length of white stem to grow.
WHEN TO HARVEST YOUR LEEKS
Winter sown leeks can start to be harvested from the second week of August onwards. Spring sown leeks can be harvested from onwards the last week of October right through to March the next year.
Don’t be tempted to harvest leeks by simply pulling them up, they are very likely to break if you do it that way. Use a fork near their base to gradually loosen the soil around the roots and lift rather than pull. It can be tricky to do without damaging nearby plants.
PESTS AND DISEASES OF LEEKS
Despite being in the ground for a very long time leeks have an enviably good level of disease and pest resistance. Crucial to keeping them healthy is crop rotation, including them in the onion family of crops.
LEEK MOTH
The leek moth attacks leaves and the stem of leeks. Tiny pin prick holes with lines of light brown marking on the younger leaves are sure signs that the plants are being attacked. Leaves over two months old are rarely attacked. Click here for full details about identifying and treating leek moth.
ALLIUM LEAF MINER
The first problem you will probably notice is that the leaves becomes distorted and don’t grow in the normal straight and upwards manner, some leaves will lie on the ground. If you look ….. light green / grey marks on it in rows down the foliage ….. the pupae themselves which are initially creamy coloured, later on brown, and about 5mm long. They have no head section and have no legs …… Click here to go to the full article about Allium Leaf Miner.
RUST
Allium Rust attacks many plants and leeks are often affected. It’s one of the easiest fungal infections to identify, leaves have lots of raised reddy-brown or yellow spots on them. Click here for our in-depth article on how to prevent and minimise the affect of this disease.
ONION ROT
This is a serious infection which will stay in the soil for many years. The leaves will randomly start to turn yellow and will become loose where they join the main stem. The entire plant may wilt. To check out if it really is onion rot, remove the entire plant from the soil (it will need to be dug up) and examine the base of the leek where the roots are. If it is onion rot the base of the plant will have started to rot, there may well be white fluffy material at the base and in bad cases parts will have turned into black spots.
There is no cure for onion rot, all traces of the plant should be removed and thoroughly burnt. The soil will be unusable for any plants of the onion family for about eight years because this is a soil borne disease.
Because this is a disease carried in the soil, prevention consists of not importing infected soil into your garden or allotment. This often occurs by infected soil sticking to your boots and those of anyone visiting your garden or allotment.
RECIPES USING LEEKS
Our quick and easy Leek and Potato Soup recipe will bring out the flavour of your home grown leeks deliciously. To date we have cooked this soup, from the recipe we give, more than ten times so you can rest assured, it is correct.
There are many recipes using leeks on the internet and in books. In general though they can be substituted for onions in most recipes where you want a more subtle onion flavour.
By David Marks
There are four main methods for sowing French Bean seeds, each is described in detail below.Note that the dates given are the earliest dates for your area however French Beans can normally be sown up until mid to late June. By sowing seed at different times you can lengthen the cropping time considerably.
SETTING DATES TO YOUR TOWN
WHEN TO SOW FRENCH BEANS
Before sowing or planting any French Beans prepare the soil by digging it well to a depth of 30cm to 40cm. Make sure the soil is crumbly. Add a large handful of long lasting, organic fertiliser (e.g. Blood, Fish and Bone) to every square metre / yard of soil and work it in. The digging is best done a month or so prior to sowing / planting.
SOWING SEED DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL OUTSIDE
The best time to sow French Bean seeds directly in the ground in your area is the second week of May . Mark out a groove in the soil which is about 5cm / 2in deep and sow one seed every 10cm / 4in. Cover with soil
then water well if the soil is at all dry.
If you are sowing more than one row then plant the rows 50cm / 20ins apart.
Mark the planting area with plant tags to show which
variety has been planted and where.
The seedlings will emerge in about 7 to 10 days time, germination success is
about 75% in good weather conditions. The seedlings should be
thinned out so
that they are 20cm / 8in apart.
SOWING DIRECTLY IN THE SOIL UNDER CLOCHES The
procedure is exactly as described above except that two or three weeks prior
to planting, cloches are placed over the soil where the French Bean seeds are
to be planted. The seeds should be sown a couple of weeks earlier than described above,
the fourth week of April is the right time in your area.
To sow the seeds remove the cloches, sow as described above (including the
later thinning out) then put the cloches back in place. Remove the cloches
permanently, four weeks after sowing. As with all plants growing under
cloches, if the weather becomes unusually warm remove the cloches during
the day to allow air to circulate.
SOW SEED IN POTS INDOORS Using this method you can sow
the seeds earlier without fearing a frost and have crops two to three weeks
earlier than sowing in the soil outside. Start sowing seed in pots indoors during
the fourth week of April . The germination rate is also exceptionally good using this method.
Take an 8cm / 3in pot, fill with multi-purpose compost to just below the
top. Make a hole about 5cm / 2in deep in the compost, drop the seed in and
cover with compost. Keep the compost moist and place the pot in a warmish
place (dark or light). Keep a watch on the pots daily and immediately the
seedlings appear (roughly seven days after sowing indoors) move the pots to
a light and airy windowsill or a frost free greenhouse.
French bean seedling
A week or so after the seedlings first appeared
harden them off
over the next week.
Two or three weeks after sowing the seeds,
the third week of May in your area, plant the potted French Bean seedlings outside. To do this, dig a small hole
just a bit larger than the pot, tip the pot up into your hand and remove the
seedling and root ball, disturbing it as little as possible. Place it in the
hole and fill in with crumbly soil, firm the soil in gently and water well.
Each plant should be 20cm / 8in apart and rows should be 50cm / 20in apart.
At this stage of their life French beans are extremely vulnerable to slug
and snail damage as we well know to our cost. See our page on
pests and
diseases for a simple and free solution to protect the young plants in the
first few weeks of their life.
SOW PRE-GERMINATED SEED
This method produces good
results although it is basically used to encourage children to take an
interest in gardening. The principle is to place seeds on damp kitchen paper
and store in a warmish position indoors. The seeds will germinate after four
days or so and you and your kids will be able to see a sprout appearing from
the seed and seeking out the light.
Start by placing the seeds on damp kitchen paper on a plate in
the first week of May . Cover with a bowl to retain moisture and the seeds should start to sprout in four days or so.
When the sprout has reached 3cm / 1in or so it's time to plant them outside
(or inside in pots) in crumbly well dug soil.
Sow them with the sprout
pointing upwards and with the sprout just below soil level. Be careful not
to knock the sprout off when planting the seed. The seedling will appear above
soil level in a few days time.
QUICK CALENDAR FOR GROWING FRENCH BEANS
Dates for sowing seed are the same for dwarf and climbing varieties. More
specific details of sowing seed and caring for French Beans can be found
above.
SOWING FRENCH BEAN SEED
For more detailed instructions on how to sow French bean seeds, click here.
FRENCH BEAN CARE
For more detailed instructions on caring for French beans, click here.
.
WHERE TO GROW FRENCH BEANS
French Beans are a bit fussy about where they are grown and their first dislike is frost. Even a light frost will in all probability kill a French Bean plant, so only sow seed or plant out when all danger of frost has passed.
Soil is best if it is on the light side but with a good ability to hold water and nutrients. Water-logged, heavy soils are bad news for French Beans.
Originating from Central and South America, these plants like as much sun as you can let them have so a sunny position is definitely best although you will still get a decent crop in light shade. At the same time they like a reasonably constant supply of water, so hand watering may well be needed in warm months.
French Beans are included in all crop rotation plans and it’s probably best to follow the crop rotation plan. Having said that I know personally of several gardeners who grow climbing French Beans in the same position year after year with no apparent ill effects. They do this because they have erected permanent metal supports for the climbing beans which are not easily moved.
So our advice is to include beans in your crop rotation plan but if anything has to be grown in the same position for several years then the bean family of vegetables are probably one of the best suited. We discuss this in detail on our crop rotation page which can be
found here.
TYPES OF FRENCH BEANS
There are two main types of French Beans, the most common and easy to grow being the dwarf / bush types which typically grow to about 60cm / 2ft high and the same width. This type of French bean requires little or no support and starts to produce a crop typically after 10 weeks or so from sowing seed directly in the soil outside, a week or two shorter when the seeds have started off indoors. The cropping period last from four to six weeks depending on the variety.
The other type is the climbing or pole French Bean which grows to a height of around 180cm / 6ft. This type requires support in much the same way as Runner beans. Although more difficult to grow compared to dwarf types, climbing French Beans produce a much larger crop from any given amount of space. They also have the advantage that they crop over a longer period. They will take longer to produce a crop however, typically 12 to 13 weeks after sowing seed in the soil.
If growing climbing French beans remember that they will grow tall and will cast a shadow, useful for some other vegetables which like to grow in semi-shade but not so good for others which prefer full sun.
By David Marks
Forty years ago almost all grown north of Watford by amateur gardeners were of the greenhouse type. In recent years cucumber seeds have been developed which are more than happy to produce excellent crops when grown outside in much of the UK.Often this type of cucumber was referred to as a ridge cucumber because they were grown in mounds of soil designed to capture warmth, sunshine and provide good drainage. This is still an excellent method of growing them and it takes very little effort. They can however now be grown successfully on flat vegetable beds or raised beds.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GREENHOUSE AND OUTDOOR RIDGE CUCUMBERS
When you buy your cucumber seeds they will be classified as one of two types based on how early they can be sown in the year combined with how long they take to be ready for harvest.
GREENHOUSE CUCUMBERS
These are classically grown varieties such as Bella and Pyralis. These varieties are only suitable for growing in warm temperatures such as those provided by a greenhouse. They tend to be longer than outdoor cucumbers. All greenhouse cucumbers will require frequent manual watering often as much as once a day. If you enjoy a summer holiday and don’t have a trusted friend to look after your cucumbers daily while you are away then forget about growing this type of cucumber.
OUTDOOR CUCUMBERS
Over the last 40 years or so excellent varieties of cucumbers have been developed for growing outside directly in the soil. These are sometimes called ridge cucumbers. Well known varieties include Marketmore. Many outdoor ridge cucumbers have small bumps on them although not
all as La Diva proves.
The debate as to which type of cucumber tastes best, outdoor or greenhouse grown, will go on for ever but in blind tastings both came out about the same – see thisDaily Telegraph article for informal tasting results of both types. Come back here though after reading it, for the ultimate guide on growing the tastiest outdoor cucumbers.
SETTING DATES TO YOUR TOWN
CALENDAR FOR GROWING OUTDOOR CUCUMBERS IN THE
Sow seeds indoors inthe third week of April
Sow seed under cloches inthe first week of May
Sow seed in open ground- Not warm enough in this area of the UK
Harden off indoor seedlings inThe third week of May
Transplant plants outside in the first week of June
Prune main stem inthe third week of June
Harvest ridge cucumbers fromthe third week of July
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR GROWING OUTDOOR RIDGE CUCUMBERS
A position in full sun is the best one for ridge cucumbers, they will grow
in partial shade but not as well.
As far as soil is concerned they do best
in a neutral soil (neither acidic not alkaline) but they grow well in most
soils as long as it's prepared well. The soil should be rich in nutrients,
well drained but at the same time retain water - that's said for for a lot
of vegetables but for ridge cucumbers it's more important compared to
normal.
They need water to bulk out the cucumbers but the plants and fruit
suffer from mildew sometimes so the soil should also drain well to keep excess water
away.
As far as crop rotation
is concerned, ridge cucumbers can be grown anywhere in the garden or
allotment. It's best not to grow them in the same position every year but
they really don't encourage soil pests or diseases.
We describe below the classic way to prepare the soil for ridge cucumbers
which may not always be possible but try to achieve as much as possible with
the aim of having a rich, free-draining and water retentive soil.
Where the ridge cucumbers are to be planted dig out a trench which is
30cm / 1ft wide and about 45cm / 18in deep. Fill the trench half full with
well rotted
organic matter (from the compost heap is ideal) and then pile the earth
on top. The weight of the earth will compact the organic matter but you will
still be left with a ridge over the trench. This is now the ideal soil for
growing ridge cucumbers. See the picture below for the basic idea in a
picture.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW OUTDOOR RIDGE CUCUMBER SEED IN THE
AREA
Except in very warm parts of the UK the best method for sowing ridge
cucumber seed is in pots, indoors. The best time to do this is in
the third week of April .
If you really want to sow seed directly outside see our calendar near the top
of this page for dates.
Cucumber seeds
Ridge cucumbers are very productive if grown well, three to four
plants will provide more than enough for a family of five. When planning how
many seed to sow also take into account that a fully grown plant can easily
take up 60 centimetres square (2 feet square).
During
the third week of April fill a 10cm / 4in pot with normal potting compost to within 2cm of the
top. Place one or two ridge cucumber seeds on the compost and cover with 1cm more
potting compost and pat it down gently. Water with a fine spray to settle
the compost down. Mark up with the variety name and place in a warmish, dark place
(around 20°C / 68°F).
The seedlings will sprout above the surface after
about 8 days and at this stage place the pots in a light position with a
minimum temperature of 15°C / 60°F. Avoid placing the seedlings in direct
sunshine because this may well damage their delicate foliage.
The cucumber seedling shown above is exactly two weeks after sowing the seeds indoors. You will
note that we have highlighted a seedling which has only just appeared after that time. So although
they normally appear after a week or so, wait for three weeks if nothing grows initially.
Ridge cucumbers can only be transferred to their final growing position
when all danger of frost has passed. But first they need to be
hardened off and
acclimatised to conditions in the open. Begin to harden them off in
the third week of May and then plant them out in
the first week of June. Planting them in their final position involves digging a hole slightly bigger than the pot, turn the plant out of the pot, place in the hole and fill in with earth. Water well to settle the soil down.
By David Marks
Cultivation of carrots was greatly encouraged by the British and American governments during World War II for several reasons. They are easy to grow, they are very nutritious and they keep for several months. Not only that, they have a high sugar content making them tasty even when eaten raw.All those facts remain the same today and are all excellent reasons for growing carrots in your garden or allotment. Our carrot calendar, which can easily be adjusted to your area of the UK, will guide you though the carrot growing year ensuring a good healthy crop.
CALENDAR FOR SOWING AND GROWING CARROTS
Sow early carrots under cloche The first to second weeks of March
Remove cloches The first to second weeks of April
Sow early carrot seed outside The first to second weeks of April
Thin carrots as they appear From April onwards.
Sow maincrop carrot seed The first to second weeks of May
Harvest cloche grown earlies The first week of June
Harvest carrots when ready June onwards
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EARLY AND MAINCROP CARROTS
A quick word on carrot types to help understand the calendar.
As far as sowing and harvesting dates are concerned there are two basic
types of carrots, earlies and maincrop. Earlies are normally sown around April
(average) time and take 12 weeks to reach maturity. Maincrop carrots are sown around May (average)
time and take 16 weeks to reach maturity.
It is quite possible to sow both types in April, however in general, early carrots are considered
to be more tender and tasty compared to maincrops. Maincrop carrots however, will store for far
longer than early varieties and are better suited to maturing later in the year.
All sowing dates in the calendar below are the dates on which you can start to
sow carrots. With carrots in particular, it's best to sow a few seeds every week
in succession for four to six weeks rather than sow all the seed at the same
time. This will avoid all the carrots maturing at the same time and extend the
season of cropping.
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR GROWING CARROTS
Carrots are classified as root vegetables for the purposes of crop rotation. It is essential not to grow them on the same soil in two years
running. A three year rotation plan should be
sufficient to avoid any build up of pests. For details of a suggested crop
rotation plan, click
here.
For carrots sown early in the year it's important that they are grown in
a full sun position. Carrots sown from April onwards will also prefer a full
sun position but they will still grow well in partial shade.
Carrots need a well dug and crumbly soil if they are to grow long and
straight. Remove all stones and ensure that any large clods of earth
are broken up. Heavy soils will need lots of
organic matter
dug in if carrots are to do well.
Rather than a nitrogen feed they do best
if an organic multi-purpose feed such as
blood, fish and
bone is worked into the soil at the rate of a good
handful per square metre / yard a week or so before sowing seed.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW CARROT SEED
If you plan to sow carrot seed under cloches (see calendar above for the
correct start dates in your area) it will greatly help them to germinate if you
put the cloches in position two weeks earlier. This will warm up the soil
and encourage the seeds to germinate.
Some people doubt that this makes much
difference but the increase in the soil temperature under the cloche can be
felt with your hand. Remove the cloches a month
or so after the seedlings appear.
Sow the seeds of early varieties with cloche protection in
the first to second weeks of March , early varieties without cloche protection in
the first to second weeks of April and maincrop varieties in
the first to second weeks of May Don’t sow all the seeds in one go, spread the sowing over 6 weeks or so to increase the cropping period.Carrot seed is very fine and it’s easy to sow them too thickly. The disadvantage of this, cost aside, is that you will need to spend time thinning out the seedlings. Not only that but the very action of thinning them out is liable attract the unwanted attention of carrot fly which hone in on the scent of crushed carrot leaves. If you plan to sow unaided by hand then do your best to sow the seeds thinly.You can make this easier by mixing the seeds to be sown with a little sharp sand. This will decrease the amount of seeds sown. If you have the money then several varieties of carrot seed are sold on sticky tape with the intention of reducing the amount of thinning which is required. One company which does this isD.T. Brown. An entertaining alternative is to make your own sticky tape seed strips and instructions on how to this can be found here.To sow carrot seed draw a shallow line in the soil, about 1.5cm /½in deep and thinly sprinkle the seed into the line. Water the soil if the conditions are dry and sprinkle fine soil lightly on the surface. Pat it down gently with your hands and mark to indicate what and variety has been sown. Rows of carrot seed should be about 10cm / 4in apart for slimmer early varieties and 15cm / 6in apart for larger maincrop varieties.
CARING FOR YOUR CARROTS
However thinly you sow your carrot seeds there will always be too many seedlings so you will need to thin them. The final distance between each carrot should be 5cm / 2in for earlies and 7cm / 3in for the larger maincrop carrots.
Thin the carrots as soon as they are large enough to pull them out. Thinning will crush the foliage of the ones you remove and this is what attracts carrot flies. To avoid their unwanted attention thin in the evening when they have “gone to bed”, remove the thinnings well away from the carrots and water the remaining ones.
Carrots require very little attention once they are growing. Weeding will clearly be required to reduce water loss and competition for nutrients. Water the plants if conditions become dry to avoid your carrots splitting and becoming woody.
WHEN TO HARVEST YOUR CARROTS
See the calendar above for expected harvest dates but this is very much a matter of opinion of taste. Young carrots definitely have the sweetest taste and are the most tender but they probably can be left to grow a bit bigger, it’s really up to you.
If you have grown maincrop carrots and plan to keep them during winter it’s best to harvest them by mid October at the latest. If there is any sun at harvest time, allow the carrots to dry off on the ground for a day. Store them in sand in a cool, dry and dark place – they should keep for a month or two.
TOP PERFORMING VARIETIES OF CARROTS
Choosing particular varieties of any vegetable is always a personal opinion, tastes and other preferences will always vary. Below though is our list of carrot varieties which not only includes our preferences but also in depth research of the opinions of other individuals and organisations.
Where there is a particular seed merchant offering seeds of a recommended variety at excellent prices we mention them. Seed merchants are selected not only on price but also postage costs, reputation and good coverage of vegetable seeds in general.
ESKIMO A maincrop variety which begins cropping in mid to late October and has exceptional keeping qualities either in storage or left in the soil, resistant to frost damage. Awarded an RHS AGM in 2005 (reconfirmed in 2013) this F1 variety produces good sized carrots of a regular shape.
Eskimo carrot variety
Suttons Seeds sell this variety of carrot seeds, click here for details.
TREVOR
An F1 early variety which has an RHS AGM in 2006 (reconfirmed in 2010). Tastes delicious with well-coloured and tasty carrots.
Mr Fothergills offer this variety at 2.75p for 500 seeds.
MOKUM
Another F1 early variety with a particularly sweet flavour, very pleasant texture and appearance. RHS AGM in 1993 (reconfirmed in 2013). This variety is also good for containers, growing to about 12cm / 5in long.
The chief pest of carrots is without doubt the carrot fly. The only sure-fire way of avoiding attacks by carrot fly is to sow seed no earlier than June. That’s the unfortunate truth.
It’s not all bad news however because there are a few measures you can take which will greatly reduce the risk of an attack by this pest. The first is to use a physical barrier to prevent the carrot fly from ever reaching your crop. After years of experimenting we recommend Enviromesh netting. A quick visit to gardening forums will show you that many other gardeners agree.
Another key measure you can take is to thin your carrots the correct way. First choose a day when the air is still. Thin in the evening when the carrot fly is not about. Remove all thinnings far away from your crops. Pat down the soil where seedlings have been thinned and then water lightly to settle the soil down even further.
There are several other preventative measures you could take such as planting rows of garlic / onions either side of your carrots but they are at the best, less effective.
CARROT WIREWORM
Another major enemy of those who grow carrots is wireworm. It is especially common where the ground was covered in grass during the previous year or two. Unfortunately, the damage done to carrots by wireworm will only become visible when the carrots are dug up.
You will see small, dark-edged holes in your carrots where they have tunnelled in to feed. There are no chemicals available to the UK gardener for wireworm but several measures can be taken to get rid of them. Read our extensive article on identifying and treating wireworm which can be found by clicking here .
By David Marks
This page is about when, how and where to sow Brussels Sprouts. More so than many vegetables, you need to get the timing and conditions correct for a good crop.Those with clay soils will do better at growing Brussels Sprouts than for many other vegetables. They need a firmish, slightly alkaline soil with a bit of body to support the long stems. Sandy soil will need lots of improvement.
QUICK CALENDAR FOR GROWING BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Buy or borrow a soil testing kit (optional)the third week of January
Add lime if necessary to reduce soil aciditythe third week of January
Sow seed of early varietiesthe second week of March
Thin seedlings as they appearthe last week of March
Sow seed of mid to late varietiesthe first week of April
Transplant seedlings when 13cm tall -
the last week of May
Begin to harvest -
the third week of November
BEST SOIL AND POSITION FOR BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Soil and position are the key to growing Brussels Sprouts well and it's all
down to the plants being unusually tall and liable to wind damage. They
prefer a firm soil with some body to it but also free-draining.
An average clay soil which drains well is perfect for your Brussels Sprouts. Lighter
soils can be improved by the addition of organic matter and a technique we
describe in the care section of this article.
Any digging of the soil for Brussels Sprouts is best done in the autumn prior to
sowing seed / transplanting. This will allow the soil plenty of time to
settle down and provide the firm soil which this tall vegetable needs. If
you plan to add well-rotted manure, do this now but not just before transplanting.
SOIL ACIDITY / pH LEVELS As with all brassicas,
Brussels Sprouts are liable to a range of diseases if the soil is too
acidic, club root in particular. The only way you will know if your soil is acidic or not is to buy a
soil testing kit.
These kits aren't expensive, they are simple to use and can
save a lot of the heartache if things go wrong. We took a quick look around
the internet and found that there are perfectly good soil testing kits
available for around £10 including postage - they will all test the soil pH many times over.
If you find out that your soil is too acidic then give thanks that you found out
before attempting to grow Brussels Sprouts on it! A soil pH much below 6.5
and you will need to apply some very cheap lime to your soil before planting
any brassicas. Head off down to your garden centre and they will be sure to
have some in stock. Dig it in following the dosage instructions on the pack.
ESSENTAL CROP ROTATON Another essential with Brussels
Sprouts and all brassicas is that they should not be planted on the site of
a brassica crop in the previous year or two. See our
crop rotation page for more
details on how to rotate crop plantings over a four year period.
SUN, WIND AND SOIL NUTRIENTS Sprouts grow well in
both full sun and partial shade but remember that they are tall pants and
will cast quite a shadow from July onwards. Do your best to site them in a
position protected from wind. Their foliage is minimal so planting other
quicker crops in between them works very well, try lettuce, radish, swede or
rocket as companion vegetables.
Prior to planting Brussels Sprouts in their permanent positions they will appreciate a good
handful of fish, blood and bone fertiliser every square metre (yard) a
couple of weeks before transplanting. Lightly rake the soil (don't dig it at
this stage) to mix the fertiliser in well.
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW BRUSSELS SPROUTS SEEDS
Whatever method you use initially to grow your Brussels Sprouts it's useful
to note that they do better if they are transplanted at a young age. This
seems to encourage fibrous root growth which in turn anchors the plant more securely to the soil.
The method below has the seed sown in a seed bed and
then transplanted to their final position but they do equally well with the
first stage being in a seed tray or pots. If sowing in a seed tray or pots do not any additional feed to the
seed compost, it will already have sufficient nutrients in it.
Brussels Sprouts seed is normally sold as early (e.g. Crispus, Cromwell,
Maximus, Red Ball) or mid / late (e.g. Bedford, Millennium, Montgomery,
Titus). Sowing some early and some late varieties and you have the real
possibility of being able to crop from as early as mid September to very
early March. Both early and mid / late seed is sown in exactly the same way, only the timing differs.
Prior to sowing seed, the soil in the seed bed should be prepared as
described below. Use a forked trowel to create a fine tilth on the
surface of the soil - do not dig at this stage though because this
would loosen the soil too much. Work in a handful of blood fish and
bone per metre.
Sow early varieties of Brussels Sprouts in
the second week of March and mid to late varieties in
the first week of April.
Draw a line in the soil about 1.5cm / ½in deep and thinly sow the seeds. Cover with a thin layer of soil and gently firm down, water the seeds in well with a fine-rose watering can.
If you have more than one row space them 29cm / 8in apart. Unused seeds for Brussels Sprouts will keep well in a dry dark place for three years. The seedlings of Brussels Sprouts will appear after approximately ten days and as soon as they are large enough to handle
thin them out to 10cm / 4in apart.
Cabbage Root Fly can be a major problem in many areas and a key preventative measure is to lay small discs of felt, cardboard or similar material on the soil around the stem of the plant.
This will stop the flies laying eggs in
the soil near the stem of the plants. This can be left until thetransplanting stage but the first generation eggs of this pest will probably already have been laid at the base of the plant at that stage.
Click here for our next page on Brussels Sprouts showing how and when to transplant them, ongoing care and how to harvest them.
By David Marks
Beetroot has undergone a huge change over the last 1,000 years. Originally it was used primarily for its leaves which are edible. Over the years its roots started to be used for food but they were long and tapering and not particularly sweet.In the 1800’s beetroot became more popular in Europe because new varieties were bred with far sweeter roots. The British championed preserving beetroots in vinegar which some think is a particularly unappetising way of preserving this delicious vegetable.
SETTING DATES TO YOUR TOWN
WHEN AND HOW TO SOW BEETROOT
The best time to start sowing beetroot outside in the UK is the fourth week of April.
One common mistake is to sow a large number of beetroot seeds all at the same time. Try to avoid this, rather sow a small
number of seeds every two weeks.
Beetroot seed can be sown any time up to mid July and sowing at two week
intervals will give you lots of this crop over a long time.
Some beetroot seeds are coated in a substance to stop them developing in the seed packet and it's a good idea, although not
absolutely necessary, to drop the seeds you want to sow in a glass of water
and let them soak for an hour or so. This will wash away most of the
growth inhibitor and give the seeds the best chance of getting away to a quick start.
Many people notice that a few of the seeds might float to the surface of the water, whereas the
majority of them will sink to the bottom. Ignore this and use all the seeds.
First choose a site as explained below,
then dig it well scattering in a handful of
fish, blood and bone
fertiliser every square metre / yard. While you are digging remove any stones you come
across as well as any weeds. Now rake the surface of the soil so that it is
fairly level and the soil is crumbly.
Draw out a groove in the soil which is approximately 2cm (¾in)
deep and drop one seed into it every 5cm / 2ins. Gently draw soil over the
seeds so that it is level with the surrounding soil. If the soil is at all
dry, gently water over the sown seeds.
Place a marker at the head of the row to show what variety you have sown and where the seeds are planted. If you
are planting more than one row of beetroot leave about 20cm / 8ins between each row.
When the seedlings emerge keep a very good eye out for birds because they
can decimate a crop of beetroot in a matter of a couple of days. See our
pest and disease page for more details on how to prevent the birds from eating your crop.
Edible beetroot leaves
GROWING EARLY BEETROOT
There are two common methods for growing an early crop of beetroot, the
first being to start them off under cloches. Place the
cloche(s) over the
area where the seeds are to be sown a couple of weeks before sowing. This
will warm up the ground and allow the seeds to germinate about a month earlier than normal.
Sow the seeds in
the fourth week of March and leave the cloches in place for six weeks or so. Unlikely though it may be
at this time of year, water if the conditions under the cloches are dry.
After a week or so the seedlings should appear and the cloches will,
conveniently, provide protection against bird damage. Remove the cloches six
weeks after sowing the seed. This method will provide you with beetroot two to
three weeks earlier than normal.
The second method to grow early beetroot is to sow the seeds in modules
indoors / heated greenhouse. The best time to do this is
the second week of April. Ensure they are watered well and the seedlings will emerge in a week’s time.After another two weeks harden the seedlings off and then plant them out after another week. This method will provide you with beetroot two weeks earlier than normal.
BEST POSITION TO GROW BEETROOT
As far as soil type and position go beetroot is probably the most tolerant of all vegetables. It does of course have preferences and these are for a light soil which can hold moisture and a position in full sun – these will bring out their best growing capabilities.A neutral soil (pH 6 to 7) is ideal but they will tolerate slightly alkaline conditions well.
However, even in heavy soil and partial shade they will still deliver a good crop. Beetroot do very well
when grown in containers, see our section on this lower down this page.
Beetroot’s only absolute dislikes are soil which has recently had manure applied to it or a stony soil. Neither will stop them producing a crop but the beetroots produced will very likely be malformed and forked. If you enjoy unusually shaped beetroot give it a try, but if you are looking for perfectly formed beetroot globes then give manure and stones a miss!
GROWING BEETROOT IN CONTAINERS
Beetroot is an excellent crop for growing in containers or raised beds because the light soil is ideal for them and ensures perfectly formed roots.
All the procedures for sowing seed and general care are exactly the same when growing beetroot in containers with a few exceptions. Choose a container which is at least 45cm / 18in wide and make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom.
Place a few stones in the base of the container and fill with standard multi-purpose compost. Sow the seeds as described above. Place the container in a sunny throughout the growing season.
Our standard raised bed feeding and watering program (seethis page) will be fine for growing beetroot. Weed as well to reduce competition for water and nutrients.
STORING BEETROOT SEEDS
When buying beetroot seed bear in mind that if they are kept in cool, dark and dry conditions they can be kept and remain good for five years or more.
If you want to save beetroot seeds you will need to harvest the seed of open pollinated varieties in the second year of their life. Note that beetroot will cross with any nearby plants of the beet family – that includes other beetroot, chard and leaf beet.
This will of course mean that the resultant plants will be very variable in quality. To avoid this beetroot need to be isolated to avoid crosses with other beetroot varieties.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
Sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article above.
Our Beetroot comment / question and answer page
lists their comments, questions and answers. At the end of that page there is also a form for you to submit any new question or comment you
have.
By David Marks
Plum trees are not as common as apple or pear trees and there are several reasons for this. We don’t believe plums are complicated to grow and these articles on growing plum trees will show you exactly how to get the best from your plum tree.
The trick with plum trees is to select the correct one for your garden and tastes. The eventual size of the tree is key as is the form / shape it is pruned to. You also need to consider the pollination needs of your plum tree, many are self-fertile but some are not.
PLUM TREE ROOTSTOCKS
Several factors affect the size of a plum tree, one of them being the rootstock on which the tree is grown. Almost all plum trees are grafted onto the stem of a different plum tree. This lower stem is called the rootstock.
The reason for this is simple. If a plum tree was left to grow on its own roots the resulting tree would be far too large for most gardens. To get round this problem, plum tree growers graft the required variety onto the roots of a tree which does not grow so vigorously.
So, the rootstock shown in our picture is from the less vigorous tree, the join is where the two trees are grafted together and the scion is the variety of plum tree which is wanted. The plums which grow on the tree take all their characteristics (taste, size, shape etc.) from the scion part of the tree.
Although there are many varieties of rootstock used for plum trees, only three are commonly available in the UK. The first is St Julien A which should give a tree about 3.5m to 4m (11ft to 13ft) high, Pixy (sometimes called Pixie) with an eventual height of 2.5m to 3m (8ft to 10ft) high and the relatively new VVA1 reaching 2.5m / 8ft. Regular pruning can reduce the height of trees on all three rootstocks by about 15%.
PLUM TREE HEIGHT – OTHER FACTORS
Although rootstock has the major influence on the eventual height of your plum tree, growing conditions can also affect its height. Perfect growing conditions will result in a taller tree compared to less favourable conditions. As mentioned above, regular pruning can also reduce the height significantly.
FORMS AND SHAPES OF PLUM TREES
Plum trees can be trained to grow in a variety of shapes and you will need to know what shape of plum tree you want before you buy a tree. There are four basic forms of plum tree, pyramid, bush, standard and fan shaped. If you are buying a plum tree to grow as a standard or fan shape then specify this when buying the tree.
A standard tree is one where the main trunk has no branches coming off it low down, the head of the tree is formed higher than normal. There are no particular advantages to this shape of tree but some people find them an attractive feature in the garden.
A fan-shaped tree is normally grown against a wall and has branches which are tied into the wall. This form of pruning / training needs to be started when the plum tree is being grown at the nursery.
POLLINATION OF PLUM TREES
Some plum trees are self-fertile and some are not (click here for an explanation). Self fertile plum trees can be grown on their own and will produce plums. Those trees which are not self-fertile require another plum tree nearby which produces blossom at approximately the same time. Click here to see our page which lists varieties that are self-fertile and which varieties can pollinate each other.
AT WHAT AGE DO PLUM TREES PRODUCE FRUIT / BLOSSOM?
Plum trees generally start to produce fruits and blossom after three to four years depending on the variety, growing conditions and pruning. Plum tree blossom is produced before the leaves are fully out in most years.
TYPES OF PLUM TREE
The use of the word “plum” in this article refers to gages as well. There is no reliable method to differentiate a plum for a gage although in general terms, a gage is sweet and used for eating only. A plum has more acidity in the skin and some varieties are for cooking only whilst others are used for eating and cooking.
The classification between a gage and a plum is so mixed up and blurred as to be a waste of time in our opinion. Indeed some trees are intermediate between the two, Jefferson is a perfect example. Our advice is to forget the classification entirely, just read up about the plus and minus points for several varieties and use that as your basis for choosing.
VARIETIES OF PLUM TREE
The final factor in choosing a plum tree is which variety to select. There are three different main types of plum as far as taste goes. Those which are only suitable for cooking jams, sauces, pie-fillings etc., those which are best for eating and those which do a good job for both. The problem here is that the choice of good plum tree may suit one person but not another, however, there are some favourite plum varieties which have stood the test of time. Click here for our in-depth reviews of the most popular plum tree varieties in the UK.
BARE-ROOTED OR CONTAINER GROWN?
Most plum tree varieties are sold as either bare-rooted trees or or container grown. Bare rooted trees are grown in the open soil and then dug up prior to sale to the public. This type of plum tree will only be available from late autumn to late spring because bare-rooted trees need to be dormant at sale time. The chief advantage of bare-rooted plum trees is that they are much cheaper to buy. They have no disadvantages other than their limited time of availability.
Container grown plum trees have been grown in a container and are sold in a container. They are available for sale all year round and this is their advantage over bare-rooted trees. However they cost considerably more to buy. One other disadvantage of container grown plum trees is that they will take slightly longer to establish themselves.
PLUM RECIPES
We have two tried, trusted, cheap and quick recipes for plums –plum crumble and plum jam.
COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS
We have moved the Plum Tree comments and questions section to its own page which can be visited by clicking here. On that page you can view all the previously asked questions / answers / comments and also ask any new questions of your own.
The questions and answers page contains a large amount of additional information about plum tree problems.
By David Marks
Pear trees are less common compared to apple trees in the UK but the fruits are far more juicy and in many cases sweeter. Lack of a small amount of pear tree knowledge appears to be the main reason for not growing more pear trees.
The key factors in successfully growing pear trees are the rootstock used, the variety of pear tree, understanding your local weather conditions and when / how to harvest and store pears.
PEAR TREE ROOTSTOCKS
If you grow a pear tree from a seed and leave it to grow on its own roots you will end up with a massive tree which can easily reach 6m to 7m (20ft to 23ft) high. The fruit will be well out of the reach for picking unless a ladder is used, it will cast a large amount of shadow and will suck up moisture and nutrients from a wide area. Another, often ignored, problem with large pear trees is that they are difficult and sometimes impossible to spray with pesticides. These disadvantages are not the ideal for almost all UK gardeners!
Pear tree growers, both commercial and amateur, were provided with an ideal solution to tall growing pear trees in the mid 1920s when East Malling Research made Quince rootstocks available to the general public. A rootstock is a variety of tree which restricts the size and enhances the growth characteristics (disease resistance, fruit size and shape, survival in adverse conditions) of pear trees when they are grafte onto it. Currently, the vast majority of pear trees commercially grown in the UK are on Quince C or A rootstocks.
The picture below shows the rootstock at the bottom of tree where the roots are growing into the ground. The scion is the desired pear tree variety which has been grafted onto the rootstock at the point shown by the join
Different areas in the world have preferences for different rootstocks because local conditions differ and require a rootstock which does best in those conditions. In the UK the following rootstocks are commonly available to the amateur gardener:
Quince C Rootstock
: this is a quince tree (closely related to
the pear tree) rootstock which is the most dwarfing (i.e. restricts the
eventual height of the tree) of all. Trees grown on this rootstock
typically grow to a mature height of 2.5m to 3m (8ft to 10ft) depending
on the variety and local conditions. Pear trees grown on the Quince C
rootstock have the following characteristics:
Suitable for growing as a bush, cordon, espalier and fan shaped
tree
Begins to produce fruit quickest of all, normally after three to
four years
Requires a stake to support it throughout its life
Best grown in soils which have good supplies of water (not
water-logged) and nutrients.
this is also a quince tree rootstock
which is slightly more vigorous compared to Quince C. Tree grown on this
rootstock typically grow to a mature height of 3m to 3.5m (10ft to 11ft)
depending on the variety and local conditions. Pear trees grown on the
Quince A rootstock have the following characteristics:
Suitable for growing as a bush. Can also be grown as a bush,
cordon, espalier and fan shaped tree on poor soils
Begins to produce fruit after four to five years
Requires a stake for the first three years of its life
Grows well on most soil conditions.
Can easily be pruned to a height of 2.4m / 8ft. This is the
rootstock we recommend for most garden situations.
this rootstock is not dwarfing in the
true sense of the word. It is a cross between two varieties of Pyrus
communis (‘Old Home’ בBonne Luis d’Avranches’). Pyrodwarf is of
German origin and is copyrighted. Trees grown on this
rootstock typically grow to a mature height of 4m to 4.5m (13ft to 15ft)
depending on the variety and local conditions. Pear trees grown on the Pyrodwarf rootstock have the following characteristics:
Suitable for growing as a standard or half standard. Can also be
grown as a large fan or espalier on poor soils
Begins to produce fruit after four to five years
Does not require staking
Grows well on most soil conditions
Produces lots of suckers from the rootstock which should be pruned
away
Good resistance to fireblight which can be a major problem with
pear trees grown in warm areas of the UK
Tolerates alkaline soils better than most rootstocks
Currently not very commonly offered for sale in the UK.
Pyrus communis Rootstock:
this is a rootstock which
is grown from a seed. If you want a large pear tree it is still better
to grow it on a rootstock because it will, in most cases, give the tree
better disease resistance and fruit production abilities. Trees grown on
this rootstock typically grow to a mature height of 6m to 7m (19ft to
23ft) depending on the variety and local conditions. Pear trees grown on
the Pyrus Communis rootstock have the following
characteristics:
Suitable for growing as a standard
Begins to produce fruit after eight to ten years
Does not require staking
Grows well on most soil conditions and tolerates alkaline soil
It’s clear that the rootstock of a pear tree is the most important factor
in its final size. Our recommendation for most amateur gardeners would be to
choose the Quince A rootstock. For smaller gardens its size can be further
reduced by an annual prune in June. Quince C may be
more suitable in the following conditions:
In small gardens where space is at a premium
In small and medium sized gardens where the soil is a rich loam and
has a good water supply and the tree will be in full sun position all
day
Where fireblight is a known problem, consider also the Pyrodwarf
rootstock for fireblight resistance (see above).
PEAR TREE HEIGHT – OTHER FACTORS
After the choice of rootstock, local growing conditions are the most important
factor as far as tree height is concerned. Pear trees thrive in a rich loam soil
that has good drainage but at the same time a regular supply of water. They
also grow better (and produce more fruit) in a full-sun position for as much
of the day as possible.
FORMS AND SHAPES OF PEAR TREES
Trees can be grown in all shapes and forms but the most common pear trees in
the UK for amateur gardener are as follows:
Bush shape: A bush shaped pear tree is the most
common in UK gardens. Typically the bare trunk will be about 60cm / 2ft
and the total height at maturity (on a Quince A rootstock) will be about 3m to 3.5m (10ft to
11ft). Of all the shapes this one is the easiest as far as pruning is concerned.
Fan shaped: Almost always grown against a wall.
Initially the tree is pruned so that two main stems are grown in a V
shape and from those a series of two side-branches are grown and tied
onto the wall. The bare trunk will be about 30cm / 1ft and the total
height at maturity (on a Quince A rootstock) will be about 2.5m to 3m (8ft to
10ft). To create the ideal shape the tree not only needs to be pruned
carefully but the individual branches need to be trained to the correct
shape. Difficult to achieve and time consuming but very productive of
fruit, utilises space very efficiently and looks spectacular. See the picture below.
Espalier shaped: The shape is a single stem with
pairs of branches growing from it in tiers. The bare trunk will be about
30cm / 1ft and the total height at maturity (on a Quince A rootstock) will be about
2.5m to 3m (8ft to
10ft). The most difficult shape as far as pruning and training is
concerned. Very productive and forms a spectacular centre-piece.Awaiting picture
Cordon shaped: The shape is a single stem with very
short side branches. The bare trunk will be about 30cm / 1ft and the
total height at maturity (on a Quince A rootstock) will be about 2.5m to
3m (8ft to 10ft) although careful pruning can restrict the height. Each
individual cordon will produce far fewer pears than other forms but
because the trees occupy so little space more can planted in a given
area. Require a wall, fence or strong structure to support them.
PEAR TREE POLLINATION
The majority of pear tree varieties are self-sterile which means they need
another variety (not the same variety) nearby which flowers at the same time
for pollination to occur. Only when pollination occurs will fruit begin to
form. Two common varieties which are considered self-fertile (i.e. they do
not need a pollination partner) are Concorde
and Conference. In most conditions they
will produce a crop of pears as stand alone trees.
Pear trees are pollinated by bees and a few other insects but in reality you
are relying on bees. In most suburban and urban gardens there is a likelihood of a suitable pear tree(s) for pollination being grown nearby but
this is by no means guaranteed. Remember, far fewer pear trees are grown in the UK compared to
apple trees and this can make pollination of a single pear tree problematic in many areas.
To guarantee success you need to grow two matching pear
tree varieties in your garden and the two trees shouldn’t be of the same
variety. The only other consideration is that they must flower at roughly the
same time. Pollen is produced in the flowers and matching flowering times is the
key to successful fruit production.
If only life was that simple! Various companies and organisations have
tried to group pear tree varieties into what is called pollination groups.
The theory is that varieties of the same group will pollinate each other
because they flower at the same time. In practice a given variety will also
pollinate others in groups next to them as as well. Take the example of Conference pear tree which is in pollination group 3; it will be not only be
capable of pollinating other varieties in group 3 but also groups 2 and 4.
This is because the flowering time of a pear tree is roughly three weeks and
therefore varieties in different groups can overlap each other as far as
pollination is concerned.
The first complication occurs because some organisations do not use
“numbers” to define pollination groups, instead they use letters and the two
do not necessarily correspond. Even comparing the “numbering” system,
different organisations use different numbers for the same varieties.
Take the case of the variety Beurre Hardy. The RHS classify it
as being Group 3,
Ashridge Trees classify it as being Group B,
Keepers classify it as being Group D (and also uniquely classify it as
“Pollination Date 19”), Blackmoor
classify it as Group B,
Chew Valley go out on a limb and classify it as “mid-season flowering”,
the differences in classification goes on and on.
What seems very strange to us is that none are specific about the
dates when a variety will, on average, be in blossom. Possibly this
is because each year has different weather conditions which can
significantly delay or bring forward the dates of blossom. But this is not a
problem in reality as the following example shows. Let’s say we agree that
the average date, in the average UK area, for Conference producing blossom
is the third week of April through to the first week of May.
In a good year weather wise this date might be brought forward by a week
or two. But the critical point is that if Conference flowers two weeks
earlier than normal so will all the other varieties of potential pollination
partners, so pollination will not be affected. With this in mind, our unique
table below shows two pollination date classifications for all the common
pear tree varieties. The RHS classification and a date when, on average, you
can expect blossom production to be at its peak.
We suggest you personalise the results to the weather in your home town
by clicking here. This
will make the dates as accurate as possible. It only takes a minute and will
cause all dates on this site to be accurate for your home town. The setting
will last for six months or more and can be checked by looking at the top of
every page where your home town setting is clearly displayed.
PEAR POLLINATION GROUP 1
Varieties in this group will pollinate others in groups 1 and 2:
There are no common varieties of pear trees in group 1.
PEAR POLLINATION GROUP 2
Varieties in this group will pollinate others in groups 1, 2 and 3
Louise Bonne Jersey
Average flowering date:April week 2 (UK average)
Invincible
Average flowering date:
April week 2 (UK average)
Notes: Louise Bonne of Jersey and
Williams' Bon-Chretien are not compatible Invincible
produces a second flush of blossom three weeks later in cold conditions.
PEAR POLLINATION GROUP 3
Varieties in this group will pollinate others in groups 2, 3 and 4
Notes: Williams' Bon-Chretien and Louise
Bonne of Jersey are not compatible Triploid varieties (Merton
Pride) cannot pollinate other any other pear trees, they are
also self-sterile.
PEAR POLLINATION GROUP 4
Varieties in this group will pollinate others in groups 3, 4 and 5
Pear trees are sold as either bare-rooted or in containers. A bare-rooted
tree will have been grown in open ground at a plants nursery and then dug up
when it is dormant, November to February are typical times. Almost all the
soil is removed from the roots, they are then packed ready for sale either
to direct customers or via the internet. The first key advantage of a
bare-rooted pear tree is the lower cost compared to a container grown tree.
This is especially the case when buying over the internet because the
postage costs will be far lower. Another advantage is that more varieties
are grown as bare-rooted trees giving you a bigger choice.
The disadvantage of a bare-rooted pear tree is that they are normally only
available for sale during the months November to early March because they must
be dormant at the time of sale.
Container grown pear trees have the single advantage that they can be
sold and planted at any time of the year. They are normally, however, more
expensive and the choice is restricted.
PLANTING AND CARE OF YOUR PEAR TREE
Click here for full details of how to plant and care for your pear tree.
We explain in detail how to plant both bare-rooted and container grown
trees, how to stake your tree if necessary and ongoing care throughout its
life.
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Grow
GROWING MEDLAR TREES IN THE UK
By David Marks
If you are reading this because you already have a medlar tree and are seeking help to grow it well, then feel free to skip past the introduction section and go straight to the cultivation section of this document. For those thinking about growing a medlar tree, congratulations, we can give you several reasons for doing just that.
Many articles on medlar trees appear to view them as mysterious trees from an age before time began. Our research however dates the common apple tree to earlier than the medlar tree. In truth non-one knows how far back they date but many other fruits and plants date back just as far.
REASONS FOR GROWING MEDLAR TREES
Here’s a bullet point summary, in no particular order, of the reasons for growing a medlar tree:
It produces an edible fruit – that may not sound so astonishing but just think how many trees have no edible parts.
As far as I know, none of the supermarkets sell medlar fruit. Nor have I ever seen any for sale elsewhere except once in a farmer’s market. If you grow a medlar tree in your garden and eat the fruit you will be a member of a very small and select part of the UK population which has ever tasted them. Just imagine, next time you are down at the pub and someone asks what you’ve been up to today, you could be able respond with “harvesting my medlar fruit”! Sounds silly maybe, but I guarantee you this, the conversation will not stop there. A far better response to the question compared to “down Sainsbury’s with the wife doing the week’s shopping” – now that really is a boring way to spend a few hours.
To get back to to the “mysterious tree” idea mentioned at the top of this article. Granted, apple trees go back just as far as medlar trees, who knows, maybe even further. The fact is though, that medlar trees are mysterious because the fruit looks like it has just landed from Mars. Combine this with the fact that most people wouldn’t know a medlar fruit if it stared at them and you do have something unknown and rather mysterious …… exactly what did those Victorians and Edwardians do with the fruit?
The form and size of a medlar tree is within the bounds of most gardens. The tree bark and branches begin to look old and interesting after only a few years. The have very attractive flowers in May time.
Medlar trees are extremely healthy and very rarely suffer from pests or diseases. They are probably best left unpruned. This is an extremely low maintenance tree.
The fruit can be eaten raw or used to make jellies. Those of you past the age of forty may well have realised that quality is far more important than quantity. The medlar tree will provide you with an exclusive tasting fruit which has a definite rarity value.
MEDLAR TREES AND ROOTSTOCKS
If you grow a medlar tree on its own roots it will grow to about 7m / 23ft tall and about the same width. This is too large for most gardens so all medlar trees sold in the UK are grafted onto dwarfing rootstock. The rootstock is the lower part of the tree and will be dwarfing – either quince or hawthorn. The upper part of the tree is a medlar. The rootstock will be responsible to a large degree for the overall size of the tree. Normally, grafted medlar trees grow to a height of 3m / 10ft and a width of 4m / 13ft, a very nice size for many gardens.
HOW TO GROW AND CARE FOR MEDLAR TREES IN THE UK
You can basically treat your medlar tree exactly as for apple trees with a few exceptions listed now. Medlar trees are in general problem free and once established require absolutely no attention. They will require staking for the first three years but then will be able to support themselves.
They don’t need pruning although it’s fine to do that if you want to keep them in shape. Prune when they are dormant in mid-winter. Medlar trees are fully self-fertile and one tree will quite happily produce fruit on its own. Medlar fruit will be produced on three to four year old trees and and cropping will be at its maximum on a five to six year old tree. All medlar trees are deciduous (loose their leaves in winter).
They grow equally well in full sunshine and partial shade, their particular dislike is water-logged positions. If the fruit is to be used for making jellies, ideal with rustic cheeses, it can be picked in early November when it will be tart.
Blossom of a Medlar tree
A good recipe for medlar jelly can be found here. Different recipes require the medlar fruits to be at different stages of ripeness. One rather misconceived recipe requires some of the medlarf ruits to be ripe and some of them to be hard and unripe – not quite sure at what time of the year you can get hold of the two at the same time. Maybe half in Scotland and half in Devon!
For eating by themselves the fruits need to fully ripen until they are soft which will be around mid-November time, the first frost is normally a good time to harvest. This last period of ripening is called bletting for some reason, for us it’s just ripening. If you are out in the garden frequently at that time of year just pick the fruits direct from the tree and eat them then and there as a daily treat. If you need to store some then simply pick them and store in a cool area (shed, garage etc.). They will last for another three to four weeks or so. The colder it is the quicker they will soften.
RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF MEDLAR TREE
NOTTINGHAM
One of the easiest medlar trees to buy because it has several good qualities. First, the fruits are probably the best tasting of all the medlar fruits, on the small size but very tasty. Use is for eating and for making jellies. The fruits taste of pears and apples with a runny toffee consistency.
The trees grow to about 4m wide by 3m high when grown on Quince A rootstock making them an ideal size for most gardens. For eating pick the fruit in late October and then store (see above) for about 3 weeks before eating.
ROYAL
Not quite as popular as the Nottingham variety but still a very worthy tree. The fruits taste slightly of figs, a very acquired taste although they make excellent jellies.
By David Marks
Buying an apple tree is an investment in the future. It won’t produce anything for at least two years and maybe will take up to four years to bear fruit but after that time it will give you a crop for thirty or forty years with very little maintenance.
Time taken to chose the correct location and variety, plant it properly and prune it once a year will give you years of delicious, free fruit. Our guide takes you through this process in plain English backed up with expert advice.
CHOOSING THE BEST APPLE TREE FOR YOU
The key factors you need to consider before buying your apple tree are:
Tree size and rootstock – this will depend on the space you have available and how accessible you want the fruit to be. The rootstock (see below) is significantly responsible for the size of your apple tree.
Type – cooking or dessert apple.
Variety – this is a personal choice but we can guide you as far as sweetness and texture is concerned.
Cost – bare rooted apple trees are normally cheaper compared to container grown ones but they are only available at specific times of the year.
Keeping qualities – different types and varieties can last from as short as a week or two right up to five months.
Pollination – many apple trees require another nearby apple tree if they are to bear fruit and in some circumstances you need to choose wisely to ensure the blossom will be pollinated.
Weather conditions and position – apple trees are fully hardy in the UK however some weather conditions and positions may damage the blossom and / or prevent insect from doing their job at pollination. Some varieties are better at withstanding adverse weather conditions compared to others.
None of the above is complicated, especially easy with our advice, but you do need to consider each point if you are to get the best crop from your apple tree. Our full list of apple tree varieties is in the box below.
APPLE TREE SIZE AND ROOTSTOCKS EXPLAINED
If you grow an apple tree from a pip it will have two characteristics which will almost be guaranteed. The first is that it will not be the same variety of apple, almost certainly it will be a mixture of two varieties. The second characteristic will be the overall size of the tree, it will be far too tall and wide for the average garden. These are two reasons why growing apple trees from pips is not the best idea.
Rootstocks may sound a bit complicated but when you buy your apple tree they are a key factor. The rootstock is a major factor in determining the size and vigour of the tree as well as the variety you choose. At the end of this section we suggest a couple of rootstocks to make your choice simpler although understanding how a modern apple tree is formed is useful knowledge.
All apple trees sold in the UK nowadays are formed from two parts. The lower part is called the rootstock and the upper part is called the scion; the two are joined together at the plant nursery from two different apple tree varieties.
If you look at the picture on the right or below (click it to enlarge it and see far more clearly) you can see a “bump” in the trunk which is where the top scion and the bottom rootstock have been joined together. This is present on all nursery grown apple trees and appears below the lowest branch.
Apple trees are grown on many rootstocks in the UK but in reality only four are suitable for most conditions. The following paragraphs summarise the four most currently common one and their uses.
M27 ROOTSTOCK
This produces the least vigorous and smallest of apple trees and is suitable for growing a manageable sized tree in a container. This rootstock is only suitable for normal open garden use when it can be watered and fed regularly and the soil is not too light. The tree will need to be permanently staked.
M9 ROOTSTOCK
Also suitable for growing in containers and ideal for small gardens. The tree will grow to about 2.4m / 8ft high and will need to be permanently staked.
M26 ROOTSTOCK
This rootstock will grow a tree with a fully grown height and spread of 3m / 10ft. It is ideal for a large container grown tree and for small gardens. More vigorous than the two above and better able to cope with lack of water. This also requires permanent staking in windy conditions for some varieties.
M26 is often used as the rootstock of choice for more vigorously growing varieties such as the Bramley’s Seedling where it will not require staking.
MM106 ROOTSTOCK
Suitable for medium and larger sized gardens it has a fully grown height and width of about 4m / 13ft. Regular pruning can reduce the overall height and spread by about a quarter.
ROOTSTOCKS AND WOOLLY APHIDS Woolly aphids are common in some parts of the UK and if you want to minimise the likelihood and effect of this pest then rootstock choice is important. In general the more vigorous the rootstock the more resistant it is to woolly aphid attack. Of the rootstocks name above, MM106 is by far the most resistant.
TYPES OF APPLE
There are two types of apples, cooking ones and eating ones. Cooking apples have less sugar content with a tarter taste which is not to many people’s taste unless cooked with sugar. Cooking apples also tend to be larger compared to eating apples. If you plan to have two apple trees in your garden or allotment then one cooker and one eater is a good solution.
Much is made about using the correct apples for cooking but in reality many eating apples cook very well. All they require is slightly less sugar added.
Sometimes however, with cooking apples, it is important to the recipe if the apple cooks to a puree or if it retains much of its shape. For example, apple sauce requires an apple which cooks to a puree and a Bramleys Seedling is ideal for this. On the other hand an apple tart with the apple segments displayed on the top requires a cooking apple which retains its shape and Annie Elizabeth is a good choice for this type of recipe. Cooking with apples is a matter of personal preference and for some recipes such as apple pie, either of the above varieties may be your preference.
BARE-ROOTED OR CONTAINER GROWN
Bare-rooted apple trees are grown in open ground at nurseries and when the time comes to sell them they are dug up with very minimal soil on the roots and shipped to the customer or garden centre with a bag over the roots to maintain moisture levels.
This may sound drastic but there are factors which make this good practice. The first is that the digging up only occurs when the apple tree is dormant – typically between late November to early March although weather conditions can extend or reduce this time frame. For this reason you will only be able buy bare-rooted apple trees during late autumn to very early spring.
If the trees were dug up in summer when not dormant the heat and their need for water would soon kill them. Bare rooted trees, as is the case with container grown ones, need the correct conditions for planting. If these are not present when the tree is delivered a simple technique called heeling-in can be used to store them outside for a month or two with absolutely no damage to the tree. See our section on planting apple trees for more information.
Container grown apple trees are exactly what it says on the pack, they are grown in a container and not in the open ground. These trees are available all year round and can be kept in their original containers for a couple of weeks before planting if required.
Our opinion on which is best is clear, buy bare-rooted trees in preference to container grown ones even if you plan to grow the tree in a container at home. The key reason for this is cost; container grown apple trees cost more compared to to bare-rooted trees because the postage for container grown plants is often much higher compared to bare-rooted trees, an important point if you are buying online.
Aside from postage costs there is very little to choose between bare-rooted trees and container grown ones. Nowadays the choice of postal delivery companies and couriers is increasing rapidly and the cost of postage is changing all the time sometimes for good and sometimes for bad, so keep a close eye on them when placing an order.
VARIETIES OF APPLE TREE
When choosing an apple tree variety you need first to decide if you want a cooking or an eating apple (see above). Once that decision has been made then the rest, assuming you have read through the article above, is down to your own particular taste buds and other requirements.
The list of varieties below spans several tastes and keeping qualities, they are a few of our own favourites though, the choice is really up to you. We have stuck to varieties that easily available from garden centres and online, more exotic choices can be made if you search through local plant nurseries. At the end we have also listed a couple of named apples which are very popular (in the supermarkets only in some cases) but have some significant drawbacks which the amateur might not be aware of.
VARIETIES OF APPLE TREE RECOMMENDED FOR AMATEURS
BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING
If you want a cooking apple which produces a delicious tasting puree then a Bramley is for you. The tree is very vigorous and produces lots of very large cooking apples. This is a triploid variety with very attractive flowers. Click here for more information about Bramley apple trees.
DISCOVERY
One of the earliest of all the apple trees producing fruit in August. The apples are crisp with a bright red ruby skin. Click here for full details of the Discovery apple tree.
EGREMONT RUSSET
Different from most modern apples, Egremont Russet dates back to 1872. In our opinion it is the best of the russet apple trees (click here for more about russet apple trees) with a delicious nutty flavour of a bygone age. Click here for detailed information on the Egremont Russet apple tree.
FALSTAFF
Falstaff is one of the heaviest cropping of all eating apple trees and it does this regularly year after year. Introduced in 1971, it produced a sport (a natural mutation) in 1983 which shares exactly the same characteristics with the exception that Red Falstaff has a more red skin.
Crunchy, acidic and sweet, it is one of the best eating apples for a UK garden. Click here for our full description of the Falstaff and Red Falstaff apple varieties.
Falstaff apple
FIESTA
Fiesta is a cross between Idared and Cox’s Orange Pippin and it takes the best qualities of both varieties whilst at the same time avoiding most of their not-so-good characteristics.
Superb taste, keeps very well, ideal for eating first but also excellent for cooking. Good disease resistance. Click here for our full description of the Fiesta apple variety.
Fiesta apple
SUNSET
We very strongly recommend this apple variety for any size of garden in the UK. For smaller gardens and container growing we think it’s possibly the best variety ever.
It has all the flavour of a Cox’s Orange Pippin but almost none of the pest and disease problems. If you want a relatively compact apple tree which very reliably crops each year with the minimum of attention then Sunset has to be number one on your list. Click here for our full description of the Sunset apple variety.
BE WARY OF THESE APPLE TREE VARIETIES!
The apple trees mentioned below are ones which we do not recommend growing in the UK even though they are firm favourites at the supermarkets.
Very popular in the supermarkets but Braeburn needs too much sunshine to be a sensible
proposition for many parts of the UK.
PINK LADY
Not really a variety of apple tree, rather it is a brand based on the variety Cripps Pink. It takes far too long to mature for UK weather where there is neither the required warmth nor the sun for much of the year. Click here for our full description of the Pink Lady brand and the Cripps Pink variety.
JAZZ
Again, this is the sales name of an apple not a variety. Its real name is Scifresh and the
apple trees are not available for sale to the amateur gardener.
POLLINATION OF APPLE TREES
Pollination is the process by which apple trees (and other plants) produce seeds and fruit. Within the flower of an apple tree is the anther, which has pollen over its surface, and the stigma. Pollination occurs by bees (and some other insects) moving over the anther, collecting pollen and then transferring it to the stigma of the same or another flower. It all sounds complicated and even more convoluted when you consider that bees fly for several miles and the pollination process occurs naturally and easily between apple trees wide distances apart.
Most apple trees need to be pollinated by another apple tree of a different variety. To do this both apple trees need to be in blossom at the same time. A few apple trees such as Braeburn, Granny Smith and Fiesta are partially or fully self-fertile. This means that they do not require another apple tree for pollination although they may benefit from another suitable variety.
A few apple trees are triploid (they are both self-sterile and cannot pollinate other apple trees). Although many growers of apple trees make a great fuss about pollination partners, in most cases nearby (i.e. 200 to 300 metres) apple trees in gardens and parks almost always do the job fine. Even in the countryside, crab apples growing wild make ideal pollination partners. But if you have any doubt then consult our page on apple tree pollination with our easy to use interactive pollination partners selector. That page contains everything you ever wanted know about apple tree pollination.
Fuchsia Calendar
Taking Cuttings
Pinching Out
Caring for Fuchsias
Pests and Diseases
Growing Standard Fuchsias
Over-winter Tender Fuchsias
FUCHSIA GROWING CALENDAR
By David Marks
Fuchsias were first identified around 1696 in the Dominican Republic which is just south of Cuba. The majority of fuchsias originate from sub-tropical areas of the world although a few are native to cooler areas. This explains why the majority are tender plants but some can withstand UK winters.
They make ideal plants for growing in the UK not only for their beauty but also because they can so easily be propagated by the amateur gardener with no special equipment at all. One plant bought in March and protected from frost can be used to create ten or more others at no cost at all. There are few plants which can be grown so economically.