Garlic

 

GROWING GARLIC IN RAISED BEDS AND CONTAINERS

Garlic has been grown for thousands of years in many parts of the world. Egyptian workers on the pyramids are recorded as being fed garlic every day to keep them healthy.

Garlic growing in a container

Garlic grows better and more reliably in containers and raised beds compared to the open ground. The conditions are ideal for this versatile plant. If they are grown in containers as shown above, the compost can be used in the garden or on the compost heap when they are harvested. This avoids the need for
crop rotation which can be a problem in larger raised beds.

 

TYPES AND VARIETIES OF GARLIC FOR RAISED BEDS AND CONTAINERS

Before recommending specific varieties of garlic for containers and raised beds it’s good to understand that there there are three common types of garlic. Probably the best for the average gardener are the softneck varieties, these are the varieties sold in the supermarkets (see more about this below). This type has a slightly milder flavour compared to the other varieties but they store far better. See the section on storing garlic later down this page which describes how you can keep garlic for four months or more. In general this type of garlic is best suited to warmer areas of the UK.

The next most common type are the hardneck varieties. They have a stronger flavour and are ideal for roasting whole and general use as well. Their major disadvantage is that they only keep well for a month or so. This type of garlic normally grows better in northern, cooler climates but they can still be grown successfully in the south of the UK.

The final type of garlic is the elephant variety. These produce much larger individual cloves of garlic and the taste is very mild, sweet even after cooking. These are the least hardy of the garlic types and they do not store well. In truth, many people consider elephant garlic to be a type of leek, but let the experts argue about that one!

As far as the best varieties of garlic go it’s a matter of taste and personal opinion. Our personal preference for a softneck is Solent Wight. It has been awarded an AGM by the RHS. It matures late and stores very well, four months easily if the conditions are correct. The yield is good and they look superb. A reasonably strong taste but not over-powering. Another excellent variety that never fails to produce good sized cloves for us is Germidour, widely available at garden centres and online.

If you want to try a hardneck variety then our award goes to Purple Italian. This variety matures early, from end June to mid July. Ideal for roasting, they should be used as fresh as possible because they have a short storage period.

We wouldn’t really recommend growing elephant garlic in the UK except as an experiment but if you want to try then go ahead, all the major seed merchants and garden centres sell them.

A frequently asked question is can I plant garlic cloves bought from a supermarket? We say no for a couple of reasons. The first is that the variety is unknown and often the garlic sold in supermarkets for kitchen use is grown in China or similar areas and not suited to the UK climate. A second reason not to use supermarket garlic is that some are sprayed by the growers with chemicals to stop them sprouting.

OUR VIDEO SHOWING HOW TO PLANT GARLIC IN A CONTAINER OR RAISED BED

 

PLANTING GARLIC

If your raised bed or container is filled with ordinary multi-purpose compost then you have the ideal soil for growing garlic. They prefer an open well-drained soil which can retain moisture.

Garlic bulb and cloves

Before planting, look at the picture on the left of a garlic bulb and a garlic clove. When you buy your garlic from a garden centre it will come as a garlic bulb.

The bulb contains 10 or more cloves, see bottom of the picture. When you separate the cloves as described below only use the larger cloves for planting, discard the smaller cloves.

The first thing to be done is to separate the individual cloves in garlic bulb. To do this pull off the outer skin from the bulb and you will soon be able to feel the form of the individual cloves. Use your fingernail or a blunt knife to break the skin that holds the individual cloves and gently tease out the the cloves one by one. Once the first clove is separated the others will be easy to extract.

Top and bottom of a garlic clove

There’s no need to peel off the skin from the cloves, just leave them as they are.

Now use the picture to work out which is the top and bottom of the cloves. The top is the pointy end and the bottom is the flatter end. When planting each clove the bottom end goes into the soil with the top end uppermost.

The best time to plant garlic cloves in raised beds and containers is October / November time. The reason for this is that garlic grows better when it goes through a cold period (our winter is fine) before it starts fully into growth.

This process is called “vernalisation” by the experts but it just means a month or two in the cold. If you miss November, any time up to Christmas will also do as second best. Garlic can also be planted in early spring.

Before planting your garlic cloves lightly sprinkle a long-lasting fertiliser such as “blood fish and bone” or “bonemeal” over the surface of the container or raised bed soil and gently work it in. This will provide a slow supply of nutrients over the next few months.

Cloves should be planted 10cm / 4in apart. Use a plant marker or your finger to dig a hole large enough to fit the clove in with the tips of the clove 2cm / 1in or so below the soil surface. Cover with the surrounding soil and gently firm it in. If the soil is dry water it lightly. Mark the position of the cloves because they will take a few weeks to emerge and it’s easy to forget where you planted them.

CARING FOR GARLIC AS IT GROWS

Garlic requires very little attention during its growth. For the first six weeks check them frequently because as the green tips emerge birds may well try to peck them out and some birds are very good at doing this. If they attack just the occasional garlic clove then simply replace it in the soil and firm back down. If birds become a problem then cover the raised bed / containers with
horticultural fleece
.

Garlic growing in a container

Our normal care routine for raised beds and containers should take care of garlic. It’s also worthwhile reading the paragraph on the specific feeding and watering needs of garlic (see
here).

HARVESTING GARLIC

Different types and varieties of garlic take different times to mature. Most varieties will mature around August though some early varieties can mature as early as June. Look for leaves which are starting to turn yellow and stems which begin to bend over, this is the time start harvesting garlic.

Garlic can be eaten as soon as it matures and this will give them a milder flavour. Most of the bulbs though should be carefully dug from the soil and loose soil removed. Harvest on a warm day because the next step is to let the garlic (with the stems and leaves) dry out in the sun. Ideally they should be placed on netting or horticultural fleece supported from the ground so that air can circulate around the bulbs.

The longer you can dry them out the longer they will keep in storage, up to a week is fine. But more practically, a day or two in the sunshine will do the job sufficiently. If rain looks likely, remove the garlic cloves to a dry airy position and move them back into the sun later on.

When the bulbs have been dried cut, the stems so that only 3cm / 1in or so remains and store in a cool, dark and airy place. Many people store their garlic in the kitchen but the light levels and warmth will cause them to sprout – dark, cool and airy conditions are best.

PESTS AND DISEASES OF GARLIC

The major pest of garlic is birds pecking out the newly sprouted leaves. See the paragraph above (click here) for what can be done to prevent this.

As far as disease is concerned, many fungi can occasionally attack garlic. If this happens there is little that can be done other than pull out affected plants and burn them before the infection spreads. Keep a careful eye out for rust which spreads very easily. It starts off with a few brown raised spots on the leaves. Cut off affected leaves immediately and burn. Wash your hands before touching any other plants.

Prevention of these diseases consists of keeping the garlic plants watered but slightly on the dry side. Make sure air can circulate around the plants.

COOKING WITH GARLIC

The whole point of growing vegetables and herbs is to eat them and we love to experiment with fresh ingredients. Along our travels we came across the Garlic Farm on the Isle of Wight who produce the most fantastic garlic ever. Our very particular favourite is their oak smoked garlic – supremely delicious. It’s not practical or economic to oak smoke your own garlic so we suggest you give them a try – their website can be found here.

There are so many recipes which use garlic that however much you produce there will always be a use for them. One of our favourite garlic recipes is roast garlic soup which can be found here. The key to this soup is roasting a whole garlic bulb for an hour and a half which sweetens it up deliciously.

Roast Garlic Soup
Roast Garlic Soup

A tried and tested favourite recipe is garlic prawns, ready from start to finish in half an hour. Our sister site has a delicious version of this recipe
here. Dauphinoise potatoes sounds very posh and complicated but in reality it’s only potatoes, cream, cheese, garlic and a few herbs. A good recipe can be found here.

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    ONE PAGE RAISED BED CALENDAR PAGE

    Garlic

    HOW TO GROW
    GARLIC

    By David Marks
    Garlic is known to have been cultivated for well over 10,000 years and in that time they have worked themselves into a huge variety of recipes. Not only that, their health promoting properties are not only written legends but many have also been proven to have scientific truth.Garlic is relatively easy to grow and if planted in well-drained soil suffers from very few pests and diseases. Many gardeners grow garlic interspersed between other crops not only because it takes up so little space but also because it is reputed to ward off a variety of unwanted pests.

    QUICK CALENDAR FOR GROWING GARLIC

    The earliest and largest garlic is grown in the UK by planting it late autumn. However some areas are simply too cold for this to be an effective method, in those cases it is far better to start off your garlic in trays or containers. If your area of the UK is too cold for autumn planting it will tell you below.

    Plant cloves outside in autumn / winter

    Plant cloves in pots / for spring plantingthe third week of November (UK average)

    Plant cloves in pots / for spring planting - the last week of November (UK average)

    Plant cloves outside in spring - the second week of March (UK average)

    Transplant garlic outside - the first week of April

    Start to harvest garlic approximately - the first week of August

    WHERE TO GROW GARLIC

    There are two key factors to bear in mind when planting garlic. The first is the bulbs will rot if the soil is not free-draining, they will not succeed whenever you plant them if they are water-logged. If your soil is heavy and retains lots of moisture it's a good idea to dig in lots of compost and preferably also some sharp horticultural sand which will open up the soil.

    The other alternative is grow them in containers (see picture on the below) filled with multi-purpose compost.

    Garlic growing in a container
    Copyright notice

    Because garlic takes up so little room, a bit of deep-digging will not be too difficult. Growing them in containers is also a very good alternative, they love the open soil and although they will need watering it will not be excessive.

    Grow them in full sun to get the best from them although some shade should not put you off. They are ideal when grown round the edge of other plants. Garlic comes from the onion family and they should not be planted in the same position for a couple of years. Neither should they be planted where onions, leeks or tomatoes were planted during the previous two years.

    WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT GARLIC

    AUTUM PLANTING
    Without a doubt autumn is the best time of year to plant garlic outside. The reason for this is that garlic cloves benefit from a period of cold weather, it helps the cloves split and form correctly early in the year. The problem though is getting them to grow to a reasonable size (around 20cm to 25cm / 8in to 10in tall) before the really cold weather sets in.

    In the ideal time for autumn planting in open ground is the third week of November (UK average) .

    AUTUMN SOWING IN POTS, TRAYS AND CONTAINERS
    If you plan to grow your garlic in containers or to start them off in trays and transplant them later (ideal for colder areas of the UK) plant the cloves in the last week of November . If there is a prolonged period of very cold weather during the winter then it's best to temporarily move the garlic either to a shed, unheated greenhouse or up against a wind free wall of a heated house. This will protect them from the worst of the cold.

    SPRING SOWING DIRECT IN THE GROUND
    If you forget to plant your garlic cloves in autumn / winter then it is still possible to plant them in early spring. Before doing this it is best to attempt to try to mimic a period of cold by placing them in the fridge for a week before planting. The cloves should be planted in the second week of March .

    TRANSPLANTING CONTAINER GROWN GARLIC
    Garlic grown in containers over the winter can be transplanted outside in the first week of April.Tease the individual plant roots out gently trying to keep as much soil intact as possible. Plant them immediately to the same depth as in the container and water them in well. Do this on a day when the soil is not frozen.

    PLANTING GARLIC CLOVES
    Planting garlic cloves is easy as long as you know the difference between a garlic bulb and a clove and which is the top of the clove and which is the bottom. Hopefully the picture on the right (click it to enlarge it and see more clearly) is self explanatory.

    When you buy garlic it will be sold as a bulb which will contain anything up to 12 cloves. First split the skin gently with a thumbnail and peel of some of the white papery covering to expose the individual cloves.

    Picture showing bottom and top of a garlic clove

    Next separate the cloves from the bulb, do this carefully to avoid bruising them. With garlic cloves it’s a case of the bigger the better so select six to eight of the largest cloves from the the bulb for planting and use the smaller ones for cooking.

    Make a small hole in the soil to about the depth of the garlic clove and place the clove in it it with the bottom end downwards. Fill in with surrounding soil and gently firm around the bulb. The top of the bulb should be just below the surface of the soil or with a tiny part protruding. Don’t let too much be visible (if any) above the soil surface because birds love to pull them out of the ground. Individual cloves should be planted 12cm / 5in apart and rows of garlic should be 45cm / 18in apart. Remember to place plant markers in the soil to show where you planted the cloves.

    CARING FOR GARLIC

    For garlic this is a very short section because they need almost no care throughout the growing season. They withstand dry weather very well but will benefit from the occasional good watering in particularly dry periods, this will keep the bulbs growing evenly. But from mid-July onwards don’t water at all to prevent any rot setting in to the nearly completely grown bulbs. Regular weeding will keep them healthy.

    WHEN AND HOW TO HARVEST YOUR GARLIC

    At the top of this page we gave approximate dates for when garlic can be harvested but in truth the best way to decide when garlic is ready for harvest is by looking at the leaves. When they have turned mainly yellow, that is the time to harvest.

    Gently remove the top soil from around the garlic bulbs, grip the stem and gently tease the bulb and roots from the soil, a trowel carefully used may help. Treat the bulb gently because very fresh garlic can bruise easily which will cause to them to rot later on.

     

    The treatment you give your garlic in the few days after harvest is important. Choose a sunny day to harvest them and when they have been taken up brush away any excess soil gently. Some soil will remain on them and that’s fine. Lay them out on a dry surface in the sun, grass or soil is fine as long as it’s dry or hang them on a line of string in the sun. As long as the weather is dry and warm leave them to dry out out for a couple of days. If rain looks likely move them inside to a warm and well ventilated area.

    Well dried garlic will store in a cool ventilated area for up to four months, some varieties longer.

    RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF GARLIC

    Se our page devoted to recommended varieties of garlic for growing in the UK.

    CAN I PLANT GARLIC BOUGHT FROM A SUPERMARKET?

    Yes you can but this has two main disadvantages. The garlic probably won’t have been grown in the UK and the variety may well not be suitable for our climate. Secondly, the bulb will almost certainly have been treated with chemicals of some sort which may well affect its ability to grow well. Best to buy garlic bulbs from a reputable supplier which will ensure a good variety which is free from disease.

    PESTS AND DISEASES OF GARLIC

    You are unlikely to suffer from pests and diseases with garlic. The most common problems though are listed below.

    ALLIUM RUST

    Often referred to as leek or onion rust, they are all the same. This is an airborne and soil virus which becomes evident when orange spots appear on the underside of leaves. The leaves will then prematurely turn yellow. In may cases the effect will be minimal although the size of the cloves may be reduced. Click here for our in depth article on how to prevent and minimise the
    effects of this disease.

    WHITE ROT

    Again this has different names (onion or leek white rot are common ones) but the disease is still the same. The first thing you will notice is that the leaves turn yellow earlier than they should. When the garlic is dug up you will see white growths on the bulbs. There is no treatment for this disease.

    Burn the bulbs and leaves. Unfortunately white rot persists in the soil for many years and any plants likely to be affected (garlic, onions, tomatoes, leeks) should not be planted on the same ground for eight years or more.

    END OF ARTICLE

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